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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #1  
Old 04-01-2013, 11:17 PM
jdale jdale is offline
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Again with hamon issues

I still cant get the hang of getting a hamon that isn't streaky or patchy.
I clay quenched the blade with 3 days of drying time on the clay, hand sanded to 800 grit, cleaned the entire blade with acetone prior to each etch, used a 3 to 1 water/ ferric chloride etch. 4 etch cycles 30 seconds, 6 seconds, 3 seconds, 3 seconds and between each etch i used 0000 steel wool. But no matter what i do the dark etch dosent look right and it never evens out with the steel wool.

This is the kitchen chopper i tried etching. It is part of a 3 piece set so i planned on sanding out the dark areas so i would end up with a very faint hamon so it would not look out of place with the others. I think it looks alright with the faint hamon, but if I had intended to have a darker hamon it would have failed horribly. I should have gotten a pic of the dark hamon but didn't have a camera in the shop.

If anyone has suggestions I'm all ears.


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  #2  
Old 04-02-2013, 07:03 AM
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Crex Crex is offline
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How are you controlling your temps? You may not be getting temps quite right.
If you are still working with 1080 range steels - it will depend on the supplier as to the "trace" alloys (manganese, etc) that are in the steel. I believe Doug touched on that in your previous thread.
1095 and W2 are most consistant with hammon developement.


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  #3  
Old 04-02-2013, 09:02 AM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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To me, that looks like a hamon on a type of steel that doesn't easily show a hamon - O1 for instance. Of course, that would also apply to the 1080 steels Crex mentioned if they had been alloyed with something not usually found in them ...


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Old 04-02-2013, 09:09 AM
jdale jdale is offline
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I do my HT in a propane forge but i have a digital pyrometer to monitor the temp and i use a couple neodymium magnets to ensure is it not magnetic prior to quenching in parks 50. I am using up the last of my 1075/1080 from admiral steel and will be placing an order with Aldo later this week for some 1075 and 1084.
Hopefully i can get a hold of a paragon oven this year as i have close to 20' of 1095 i have been holding onto for the last decade or so.
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  #5  
Old 04-02-2013, 09:18 AM
jdale jdale is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray Rogers View Post
To me, that looks like a hamon on a type of steel that doesn't easily show a hamon - O1 for instance. Of course, that would also apply to the 1080 steels Crex mentioned if they had been alloyed with something not usually found in them ...

After etching the steel it clearly shows dark well defined hamon in the area clay was coating. The issue i am having is the area below the hamon, the color is always blotchy or streaky l am unsure of how to get a consistent color over the non hamon area
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  #6  
Old 04-02-2013, 11:02 AM
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Eli Jensen Eli Jensen is offline
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Its the way you are cleaning it if you ask me. Acetone can leave residue behind. Clean like normal then wash in hot water and dish soap and dry immediately. That should do the trick
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Old 04-02-2013, 11:51 AM
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ricky_arthur ricky_arthur is offline
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I'll second what Eli said, it also looks like you may be using too aggressive a sanding grit. What I do is etch in the Kitchen sink. (wives love that) I scrub with alcohol, then dawn detergent, then rinse. Then I etch with diluted FC, until the oxides stop getting darker. 3-4 minutes. Then I squirt with windex, and rub with 0000 steel wool, then start back at step one. Repeat till I have it where I want it. Some times I'm 3-4 cycles in thinking I have a crappy hamon, but then it starts to come out.
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  #8  
Old 04-02-2013, 12:50 PM
jdale jdale is offline
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I wanted to see the hamon on that one but without any blade darkening so i sanded off all of enough so i could see nothing but a ghost hamon. The picture was more to show the hamon i ended up with, at least i thought it was interesting.

Next time i will try cleaning the blade with soap and water. longer etch, and maybe some flitz. If that dosent work ill just stick to hand finished blades..... or take up knitting.
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Old 04-03-2013, 06:56 AM
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Are you coating the entire blade with clay or just the spine? Try it both ways. I have usually gotten better results with a very light thin coat over the whole blade then a thicker coating (1/8"+) over the spine area I want to slow down. Has given crisper lines at the transition for me.
Wonder if maybe Parks might be a bit fast for the 1075-1080 series, I normally use warmed canola for these.


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  #10  
Old 04-03-2013, 10:05 AM
jdale jdale is offline
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I will definitely take all of everyone's suggestions into consideration when i start the next one.

I also decided to go ahead and get me some new steel, as i think admiral's steel might have something to do with it.
I have heard nothing but good things about Aldo so i placed the order yesterday and now have 52' of 1075, 15N20, and 1084 heading my way.

Last edited by jdale; 04-03-2013 at 10:11 AM.
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  #11  
Old 04-03-2013, 12:31 PM
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jank jank is offline
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I pretty much gave up on hamon look. I edge quench 95% of all my knives every now and then I acid etch one just for gins and I sure like look a whole lot better. To me it's like opening up a Christmas present, you never know exactly what your getting. This is one I did last month for a customer that wanted one.



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