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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #1  
Old 09-06-2002, 05:29 PM
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SVanderkolff SVanderkolff is offline
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making a slotted guard

I now have the big drill press and would like to try to make a slotted guard out of the 1/4 X 1 1/2 416ss that I have on hand. What is the best way to go about this and what equipment do I need? A milling machine is out of the question.
Thanks
Steve
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  #2  
Old 09-06-2002, 06:47 PM
Dan Graves Dan Graves is offline
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slotted guards

Steve,

I do a method referred to as conecting the dots. I first scribe a line and then use a punch to make dots where the drill bits go. Use a bit that is smaller than the tang on the blade. After securing the material in the drill, I by hand start the drill bit to assure that it starts correctly in the hole. When using the punch, give enough room for the drill bit to go thru. I generly do one dot then punch for the next. Once all holes are drilled I use a file and take my time to get that tight fit. It helps to have a shoulder file guide for the blade. I find this a must. I think uncle al stocks these. I made mine. Hope this helps.

Dan
www.theknifemaker.com


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  #3  
Old 09-06-2002, 07:16 PM
whv whv is offline
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steve -
i use a 'poor man's mill' (will post the source when i get home from work tonight) which is similar to a file guide but has slots in it. i scribe the layout on the guard, drill one hole near the bottom. clamp the material in the guide (which is clamped in a vise) and use a hacksaw down the sides of the slot to the hole that i drilled. clean it up with files.
the same tool can then be used for any notching that i need on the blade stock.


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  #4  
Old 09-06-2002, 11:06 PM
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Alain M-D Alain M-D is offline
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Steve, do you post a pict of your 'poor man's mill' ?

Thanks !
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  #5  
Old 09-08-2002, 07:10 AM
C L Wilkins C L Wilkins is offline
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I do the same that Dan mentioned, I drill a series of holes and file between them. If the slot is long enough, I will use a dremel cut off wheel to take out the material between the holes.

Here's another little trick I do. That shoulder file guide that Dan also mentioned also has another purpose than just squaring up the shoulders. Once I have the slot pretty much "wallowed out" I will place the guard in the file guide and true up the sides of the slot and I am able to get a square slot and perfect fit. Once it is square and extremely close, I will take it out and hit the slot with a file for a good fit. Once I do get THAT close, it is only a file stroke at a time. Don't get carried away, one or two file strokes is the difference between a tight and a loose fit.

That file guide that Uncle Al sells is the best $95 I have ever spent as far as tools go. The quality of the fit of the guard on my knives have improved considerably. All this without a mill. It just takes a little time.

Craig


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Last edited by C L Wilkins; 09-08-2002 at 06:44 PM.
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  #6  
Old 09-08-2002, 07:55 AM
Dan Graves Dan Graves is offline
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making a file guide

The file guide does have several uses. It is a must for the knife maker. This is how I made mine. I started with 5160 that was 1/4 inch thick by 2 inch wide by 5 inch long. cut two pcs the same length (app.5 inch). Take one pc and on each corner punch a starter for a drill hole. Clamp pcs like a sandwich (tightly), drill with drill bit used for 1/4 20 thread thru both pcs. Unclamp and drill one pc with 1/4 inch drill bit and tap the other with 1/4 20 thread. screw together and check fit, This may require enlarging a hole or two. Take your time here for a tight fit. Now screw 4 screws to your guide to assemble. Take to belt grinder and on length sides grind down to even square shoulders on both sides. Be sure to do this assembled. once sholders are square disassemble and and harden both pcs. Do not draw (temper)these pcs as they are to be as hard as a file. If done correctly, this works great and saves a lot of money. Once hardened, never take this tool to the grinder with a pc in it. Repeat, never. This is a tool for hand work only. This tool is for making shoulders on a knife blade with tang smaller than guard slot where the shoulders fit perfect and hind the slot.
A must tool or the knife maker. Hope this helps.

Dan
www.theknifemaker.com


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Last edited by Dan Graves; 09-08-2002 at 08:49 AM.
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  #7  
Old 09-08-2002, 12:35 PM
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Mike Hull Mike Hull is offline
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Craig, wasn't there a thread on the file guide, on the old forums, just before the move? Seems to me that Terry, I think(??)found file guides at another supplier for $ 20-30, and they worked great.
Unfortunately, I can't remember who the supplier was/is.

Another trick when filing a guard, is to polish the side that will face you. When you file, the reflection will tell you instantly if you are angling or tilting the file. That is for folks without file guides.


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  #8  
Old 09-08-2002, 01:36 PM
C L Wilkins C L Wilkins is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mike Hull
Craig, wasn't there a thread on the file guide, on the old forums, just before the move? Seems to me that Terry, I think(??)found file guides at another supplier for $ 20-30, and they worked great.
Unfortunately, I can't remember who the supplier was/is.
Mike,
I don't recall. Maybe we can get Terry to chime in.
I'll do some looking around.

Craig


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  #9  
Old 09-08-2002, 02:51 PM
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Terry Primos Terry Primos is offline
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The $20 - $30 dollar ones weren't working out for everyone. They were sold by Kovals. The filing fixtures were arriving with cracks or cracking while being used. Here are links to some of the old threads where we were discussing both the inexpensive ones as well as the $95 one I have been using for years with no problems.

Filing fixture?
File guide from Koval - revisited
New Tutorial: Solderless Guards

Mine came from Al Lawrence (Uncle Al, the Knifemaker's Pal) at Riverside Machine. It is well worth the extra cost. The ones Al is selling now are a newer model than the one I bought, and I think they are even better. As far as I know, the price has not gone up in all these years. Here is a link:

http://www.riversidemachine.net/


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  #10  
Old 09-08-2002, 05:30 PM
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SVanderkolff SVanderkolff is offline
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What about

What about using a slide vise and an end mill. Would that work?
Steve
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  #11  
Old 09-08-2002, 06:43 PM
C L Wilkins C L Wilkins is offline
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Steve,
That would work for a while in a drill press I suppose but the bearings in a drill press are not designed for lateral pressure and would soon be useless. The methods mentioned above work well for those of us that don't have a mill (yet).

This is a picture of Uncle Al's


The vise is not included.

Craig


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  #12  
Old 09-09-2002, 08:21 AM
Dan Graves Dan Graves is offline
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sliding vice

Steve,

I agree with Craig. The sliding vice is a good tool though. If you have one a good method for drilling is to measure the length of the slot wanted and make repeated scribe lines that end up deep enough to start a drill bit ( I start the drill by hand to assure it does not travel) with a new sharp bit. With the slide vice you can keep it alighned correctly and judge the distance between holes. I always use a smaller bit than the knife tang. After all holes are drilled I take a old bit, place guard in vice and use the old bit as a mill. I put the bit in the hole and lean the bit forward and backward as drill is running. Drill will try to go a direction of its own. Figure out that direction and use it to your advantage. I tried using an end mill for this but it is to aggressive. This way you get the hole large enough to use a file in the slot. This is my method and there can be better ones. Would like to hear anyones version on this.

By the way, I also tried to use a slide vice and end mill. In theory it should work except the drill bearings are not desighned as Craig said. Good luck and hope this helps.

Dan
www.theknifemaker.com


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  #13  
Old 09-09-2002, 09:20 AM
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Geno Geno is offline
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I have a bit for my dremel that is a double cut carbide tip that slots quickly.It is about an inch of cutting surface and cuts fast.
I drill a small pilot hole and stretch it what ever direction I need.
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  #14  
Old 09-10-2002, 09:02 AM
Dan Graves Dan Graves is offline
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Dremel bit

Geno,

Can you tell me were you can get one of these bits? How you cut a strait line and do they come in different sizes? I like the idea that you say it is fast. Would like to try this one.

Dan
www.theknifemaker.com


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  #15  
Old 09-11-2002, 03:11 PM
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Geno Geno is offline
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I get the bits at the gun shows. You know the guys who sell those great tiny tools. They are 1/8" shanks and double cut grinds about an inch long.(cutting surface)2" OAL.
They fit in the regular dremel collets.
I think dremel has them too.
I scribe the line and follow it slowly a little at a time with the cutter.
Don't try to take it all at once. It is still faster than my mill.
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