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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #1  
Old 08-10-2002, 06:50 PM
jasond jasond is offline
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Location: College Station, TX
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heat treat

today i finished profiling my first blade, and since i have not purchased a pyrometer for my kiln i used a torch for heat treating. i heated it until it was slightly red and the magnet would not stick, then directly quinched in oil. my question is was this the proper way if useing a torch? after it cooled off the magnet would stick once more, is this supposed to happen. since i did this today can i wait to temper it in the oven on monday morning since i will be working the next two nights, or should it be done directly after heat treating? by the way i used 1095.
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  #2  
Old 08-10-2002, 10:25 PM
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Chris_Crawford Chris_Crawford is offline
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Hey Jasond,

It sounds like you did ok with your heat treating with the torch. The reason the the steel becomes non-magnetic is because of the heat. As the heat gets hotter, the molecules in the steel start to rearrange. Then when you quench the blade, the molecules freeze, if you will, causing the blade to become hard. Once the blade is quenched, the steel returns to it's magnetic state.

Many people have there own ideals about the best time to temper a blade. Some believe that it's best to do it as soon as it comes out of the heat treat. However, I've had no problems with waiting a while to temper my blades. I mostly use O1 and sometimes it's a few days before I get around to tempering. Just be carefully that you don't drop the hardened blade before it's tempered because it can cause stress fractures.

Hope this helps. -chris


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  #3  
Old 08-13-2002, 06:55 PM
Gene Gene is offline
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Question Heat Treat

I'm just a dumb beginner, and I'm getting ready to send my 440C California Bowie blade in for heat treating and Cryogenic Tempering.

Are there any special hits I need to know in advance?

Is there anything which I can do wrong which will cause the blade to warp during treatment?

I accidentally got the point and first inch of of the blade a little sharper than I had intended; can this cause a problem?

Do I have to leave it dull to protect the guy who is doing the treatment, or does treating a sharp blade cause warping?

Thank you very much!

Gene
jubal@lani.net
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Old 08-13-2002, 07:11 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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Gene,

Uneven grinding could cause warpage during heat treating. A blade that seems sharp would have a thin edge and a thin edge could warp during HT. That's why most of us try to finish grinding after the HT is done. Certainly, as you said, to protect the guy who handles the blade for HT the blade must be dull. He expects it to be dull so don't surprise him. Very bad form.

Also, even though your question concerns heat treating it isn't really dealing with the original subject of this thread. It would be better to start your own thread in this case. No big deal, just something to know. That way the responses to your question can be differentiated from those of jasond ....
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Old 08-16-2002, 10:25 AM
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GANNMADE GANNMADE is offline
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SOME HEATTREATERS WILL REFUSE TO TREAT IF THEY FEEL
THE BLADE WILL WARP. THEY HANDLE KNIVES ALL THE TIME
AND JUDGE PRETTY GOOD FOR PROBLEMS .
GIVE THEM A CALL FIRST .


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Old 08-16-2002, 03:04 PM
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Raymond Richard Raymond Richard is offline
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As far as heat treating 1095 or anyother tool steel most makers would normally get the hardened blade in the over as soon as it cools off to the touch. The main reason for that is there's lots of stress in the steel after its hardened and it could crack waiting to go in the over for final ht.

As for the 440C blade what Ray Rogers said is quite true with uneven grinds. Also blades that are over ground will warp. Bad thing about 440C when finish grinding after heat treat is the possibility of over heating it since the tempering temp. is so low.


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