|
|
Register | All Photos | FAQ | Members List | Calendar | ShopStream (Radio/TV) | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read |
Tool Time Let's talk shop. Equipment, Tips & Tricks, Safety issues - Post it here. |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Forge finishing questions???????
I am currently collecting all the parts to build my forge. I have a few questions I was hoping some of you coud shed some light on. The forge is a 10" piece of pipe that is 24" long. im lining it with 2 layers of 8# kaowoll. What do you recomend covering the kaowoll with. ive read everywhere about satanite but am having trouble finding it. Are there other names for this product? I want to use a fire brick bottom in it. should i use two layers of wool under it or will one be enough. Do i cover the bricks with satanite as well? Another thing I was wondering is about stainless steel flares for my 3/4" burners? Are they worth the extra expense? any info would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Eric |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
Hmmm, same size I built!
Satanite is available from Knife and Gun.com and Darren Ellis http://refractory.elliscustomknifeworks.com/ (Darren has everything you need). I used bricks on the bottom without any wool. Stainless Steel Flares aren't necessary, but a good idea. It's hard to forge a good smooth flare, even in black pipe. I did and it worked for 50 hours or so, but rusted out to the point it no longer gave a good flame. (NEVER quench a pipe - steam jet.) Just by a t-rex burner. They are great! $100 and you're done. By the time you find all the pipe fittings, and get the burner nozzles mounted, and and and, you'll have spend that much in $$ and hassle. And it still won't run as nice. Contact: http://www.hybridburners.com/ Nice guy too. Hope that helps, Steve PS I have one burner spot in the middle and one about 6" from the front. The front one is all I've ever needed for my forging work. Last edited by SteveS; 01-26-2005 at 06:49 PM. |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
Steve
I second Darren Ellis, he has everythig you will need, whomever you get your satinite from, cover the wool with somthing, it is a spund fiberglass composite, and makes some pretty hazzardous stuff once airborne. I put my brick over my wool. but thats just the way I did it, I would coat everyting in satinite, then let it dry and coat the satinite with ITC 100, this is a coating that supposidly reflects 90% of the UV radiation. It was amazing the diffrence in my forge by using this! Id say it upped the performance by 30% - 40% . Good luck! God Bless Mike __________________ "I cherish the Hammer of Thor, but I praise the hand of God" |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
Thanks for the recommendation, Mike. I got some ITC100 from Darren but haven't put it on yet. Now I'll have to!
Steve |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
Well I will through in a little more info to make you have an even harder time deciding. If you go with A lay down forge 24" longlike I am assuming you are going to do. You will have a hard time getting an even heat with just one burner. It will have hot spots and cold spots. While a lay down forge will make it easier to forge longer pieces the only way to help get rid of the different heat zones in this type of forge would to be add another burner and if ytou go with the T rex burner you are looking at $200 bucks and if you use three even more. A way to eleminate this is to make your forge a forced blower type. if you lay it down put two burner pipes through the side to make it swirl the flames around the cylinder. and have one blower manifold hooked to the two burner pipes and then gas vaves shooting gas into each tube one 90cfm blower will do. You can get a blower from surplus center in licoln Ne for $14.95 and just use 2 inch black gass pipe. . The other route is to stand it up and make a vertical forge which is the way to go as I have built several of the two. It will have a much more uniform heat and you only need on burner at the bottom half swirling the flame around. It will also be able to be a lot shorter say 16 inches. You put an opening on both sides so you can heat longer bars and a 2 inch hole in the bottom for flux to run out the bottom. Which will make your forge last at least ten fold. Look around the forums and do som searches there is countless info on this subject and it will save you a lot of time and money in the long run. hope this sheds a little more light on the subject.
Quote:
__________________ Kevin W Vogl |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
THANKS GUYS!!!!!!!!!
Eric |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
A little late on this topic, but life has kind of exploded the past few months.
Anyway....... I heartly recomend using Darren Ellis for your supplies. Good prices and very fast and friendly service. I use fire brick on top of one layer of kaowool for my floor. The 2" thick brick is as effective as 1" of kaowool. And I wanted a net 2" of kaowool all the way around. I don't use the satinite. But I do coat the entire thing with ITC-100. The ITC-100 forms a hard shell coating. But perhaps if I had used the satinite, I would have more durable lining. __________________ Scott B. Jaqua http://www.hagersonforge.com http://hagerson.livejournal.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The most important right of all, is that of Free Speech. With out that, all your other rights will soon be taken away. So, I may disagree with what you say, but I will defend until death, your right to say it! |
Tags |
forge, forging, knife |
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|