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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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Linseed oil on handle???
Hey guys I recently purchased some boiled linseed oil to use on my knife handles. I got to searching online and people don't seem to be too happy with it for knife handles. I haven't opened it yet so my question is that is it even worth trying or should I just return it?
__________________ -Hunter |
#2
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Return it. It takes many days to weeks to dry, and most often never does unless you add driers to it. More trouble than it's worth. Buy a good gun stock finish or similar product. Super glue is tough and hard lasting, though requires building up and sanding back.
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#3
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Okay thanks. I'm glad I didn't open it. I bought a little over twenty dollars worth and that would've stunk to have a ton of useless oil.
__________________ -Hunter |
#4
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I use boiled linseed oil to my satisfaction. I just rub it in with my bare hands and set it aside to dry. I stop applying it when it take more than 24 hours to dry. Some like a similar finish, teak oil, which is applied the same way but it may but it may dry faster.
I'd never do a supper glue finish because it has a reputation of chipping. I'm sure there will be others who wave their own favorites. BTW, boiled linseed oil has driers in it, that's what separates it from regular linseed oil. Doug __________________ If you're not making mistakes then you're not trying hard enough |
#5
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As far as I know. Tung Oil and Gunstock Oil are relatively the same thing..... only thing is that Tung Oil is much cheaper. I used Tung back when I used to refinish furniture. As Doug said, boiled linseed is good product too.
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#6
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Or.....Or.......(and I can hear the chorus of groans now, "there he goes again")....you could just use stabilized wood and never have to worry about how to finish your handles ever again, sand to 400, buff and you're done....
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#7
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Buy a good gun stock quality oil finish such as Minwax Antique Oil Finish. It holds up well on knife grips. A better one is Jim Chambers gun stock finish. Soaks in deep, dries fast and durable. Not real cheap, but one of the best, and it ain't tung oil.
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#8
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Yep! As long as you get the color you want.
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#9
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I always choose natural non-dyed wood, usually burls, so getting the color I want is easy ...
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#10
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I forgot to mention those woods that are so dense and have so much oil in them that they can't be stabilized or absorb finishing oils. But most of those are getting a little pricey.
Doug __________________ If you're not making mistakes then you're not trying hard enough |
#11
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Wow thanks for all the responses. I took the linseed oil back and ended up getting some tung oil. A nd Ray I'd like to go stabilized but it's just too expensive for me right now. When I get to try out the tung oil though I'll be sure to post the knife on here.
__________________ -Hunter |
#12
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If you use tung, be sure to mix some mineral spirits to allow it to soak into the handles before polymerizing. If not, it could take several days for tung to dry on its own if it's own, especially if you have a lot of humidity like I do. As you apply coats of the mixture, don't wipe off the oil for a couple of coats it seeps in deeper it seems. Then be sure to add a little more tung than mineral spirits as you go. However; don't go below 25% spirits in the mix. Hope this helps.
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#13
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Okay I didn't realize you'd need mineral spirits. I'll have to pick up some. Thanks! Oh and yeah it gets pretty humid down here in the tennessee-alabama area.
__________________ -Hunter |
#14
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Okay so this is Formby's Traditional Tung oil finish. Apparently its a blend of tung oil and other oils and is considered a varnish. Anyone know if this is still good stuff?
__________________ -Hunter |
#15
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Hmmm............I'm not sure if you'd need mineral spirits in that or not, I was referring to straight tung oil. Probably already has a thinner/drier in that mixture.
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Tags |
antique, apply, back, building, choose, easy, glue, gun, guns, handle, how to, knife, linseed oil, post, sand, traditional, wave, wax, wood, woods |
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