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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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Drop point Damascus hunter
This is a can-welded damascus hunter I just finished. This one's a keeper (it's MINE). W1 and 1095 steels with a bit of nickel and mild steel thrown in. Stabilized Amboyna scales with mosaic pins. 5 1/4 blade and 4 3/8 handle. The bolster is damascus, too. Thanks for looking.
Chris [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] __________________ Chris K. Two Mountains Forge Delta, BC, Canada www.twomountainsforge.com |
#2
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Very Nice Chris !!
you doing your own Damascus ? too bad I don't live in Ladner anymore !! but actually Kelowna isn't to bad either Rob |
#3
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Wow man that is really nice! I would love to learn how to make can damascus sometime.
__________________ J, Saccucci Knives, JSK |
#4
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Nice job Chris. Has that minimal layer look that I think enhances the overall apperance.
__________________ Carl Rechsteiner, Bladesmith Georgia Custom Knifemakers Guild, Charter Member Knifemakers Guild, voting member Registered Master Artist - GA Council for the Arts C Rex Custom Knives Blade Show Table 6-H |
#5
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That is very nice unique looking Damascus.
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#6
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Great Looking knife. Thanks for posting
__________________ Walt |
#7
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I luv the styling and the balance of the components and colors, very tasty work ...
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#8
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Love it
__________________ Shawn... |
#9
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Nice, almost looks like chemical etching in areas.
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#10
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Thank you all. I'm getting the hang of the can-welded damascus thing and coming up with consistent results. I realized that my forge can't handle the 3 by 3 inch slabs Steve Kelly made at the hammer-in. I have to contend with a 1inch square piece of tubing. Makes one knife at a time. I have another on the go right now which turned out very nicely. I'm trying out my **NEW** Bee Metalworks knife grinder (what a beaut!). 2x72, Variable speed 1hp motor, 10 inch wheel... I might even try a hollow grind one day...
__________________ Chris K. Two Mountains Forge Delta, BC, Canada www.twomountainsforge.com |
#11
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Do you do your forging by hand? I have to pound everything by hand so the 1" tubing would be up my alley lol. Would you care to give a little info out about can damascus?
__________________ J, Saccucci Knives, JSK |
#12
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Metal99 I pound my steel by hand at first, but I do have a 12 ton hydraulic press (converted car jack) to press in a ladder pattern, if I choose. The ladder pattern can easily be hammered in with a cross-pein, too. I put a lengthy explanation of how to make can damascus on one of the threads here a while ago, but of course I can't find it anymore. The most important part is that your "ingredients" are very clean (wash with acetone) and that your can is completely oxygen-free. Any oxygen trapped within will cause an oxydation and prevent the weld from taking. I make a 1 inch by 4 or 5 inch square tube "can" by welding the bottom shut. Hold it up to the light to be sure there are no holes. Then you fill the can with your choice of metals - w1, 1095 work for me. a few thin pieces of mild steel between layers makes for a nice effect. You can use bars, rods or flats. Fill the voids with powdered 1095 mixed with powdered nickel (I use about 50/50) and tap it lightly with a hammer until it won't take any more. level the top and weld on a lid. Weld a 1/2 inch by about 16 to 24 inch rod onto the lid so you can hold it into the forge without toasting your fingers. Drill a 1/8 inch hole into the lid and squirt a bit of WD40 into it. This will ensure that any remaining oxygen will burn up and leave you with a totally oxygen-free environment. Very important. Put the package in the fire and heat to bright orange. It's got to be so hot you can see white frosting on the surface. This is where I was making my worst mistake: I'd take it out and hammer the %$# out of it. All that does is crush your can and prevent the weld from taking. Instead, use medium blows just enough to compact the can and pack the steel inside, turning by 90 degrees frequently. Heat up some more, hammer some more. Eventually you can let the inner brute loose and giv'er. Draw the billet out to whatever you intend to use it for. I switch to a double-pein hammer at this point and try to draw the billet out to about 2 inches by nine inches, about half an inch thick. If you want a ladder pattern, this is where you put it in the press, or else use a good, heavy cross-pein to impart regular perpendicular grooves into the surface. Hammering it over the edge of the anvil works, too. Leave to cool, then grind off the outermost layer of mild steel, which was the can, and presto, you have a damascus billet! Hope this helps...
__________________ Chris K. Two Mountains Forge Delta, BC, Canada www.twomountainsforge.com |
#13
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Awesome! Thank you for taking the time to share this info! Do you buy your powdered metals or make them yourself?
__________________ J, Saccucci Knives, JSK |
#14
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This poses a bit of a problem for us canadians - I got the powdered steel from Kelly Kupples in Yakima. he can't ship it across the border so I had to have it shipped to my aunt in Seattle and then drive down to pick it up. I haven't found a supplier north of the 49th yet...
__________________ Chris K. Two Mountains Forge Delta, BC, Canada www.twomountainsforge.com |
#15
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Oh man that's brutal... I have had that problem a couple times. The last time was when I wanted some wheels for my belt grinder.
Would the filings from a metal cutting band saw work for canned damascus? __________________ J, Saccucci Knives, JSK |
Tags |
1095, 2x72, awesome, bee, blade, chemical, chris, damascus, etching, forge, forging, hammer, hand, handle, hollow grind, how to, hunter, knife, made, make, man, mosaic, pins, scales, throw |
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