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#1
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What is best edge thickness before HT on 3/16 O-1
Hi KN,
The metal shop I buy from says I should get the blade to almost exact thickness, but that seems thin to me. Should 1/16 or 1/32 be better? Any thoughts appreciated. Orion. |
#2
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The general rule of thumb is about the thickness of a dime. Personally, I don't do any grinding at all until after HT is finished. The blade is less likely to warp that way and, if it does, I can choose to try and straighten it, grind it out, or just toss it if the warp is really bad. If there is any surface decarb it gets ground away - pretty much a win-win situation for me.
I make quite a few O1 blades but even more S30V blades and they are much harder to grind than O1. Even so, I use one new 60 grit ceramic belt per blade to establish the bevels. That seems like a reasonable expense to me considering the advantages I get by not pre-grinding ... |
#3
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The only thing I've been using O1 for is razors and I take them to about a 1/16 of an inch... anything less just scares me. But these are also a large hollow ground edge. If you were doing a flat grind you might be able to take it thinner, but I probably still wouldn't. Personally IMO I think you would be ok with anything 1/16 and thicker, I havent had any problems with mine... yet
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#4
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I take my edges to finished thickness, about .010, or a tad less. A separate stress relief at 1250? before the HT for an hour and quenching point down has minimized warp for me. Most any warp I get can be hand straightened while the blade is still warm from the quench, and is always in the blade as a whole, and never just the edge. I have never had just the edge warp with 01. Going that thin does require some sort of decarb protection. I use ATP-641. Double thick along the edge.
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bee, blade, blades, choose, edge, flat, flat grind, grinding, hand, knife, make, o-1, surface |
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