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High-Performance Blades Sharing ideas for getting the most out of our steel. |
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#1
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Am interested in A2 steel to replace O1
I have only made my own knives from O1, D2, 440C and Nicholson files plus some forging of mixed metals at my brothers shop. I've decided to use Texas Knifemakers Supply for my heat treating and they only do air quench. I make some carbon steel knives and heat treat file knives at the college down the hill from me in exchange for teaching advanced TIG welding. They won't pay me cuz I don't have a degree, though I know more than their "professor".
My problem is that with a forge without a thermocouple I do not know when my O1 has reached 1475-1500 to soak for the proper time. I've used a controlled kiln before and those knives are almost always better than what I get in a forge. I don't want to use two heat treaters so Bos is out. Besides Alex at TKS said he might try an experiment for me. So has anyone used A2 and is it better than O1 or even 440C? I've heard that it is definitely better than O1 and I've heard the opposite. Most everything I've read though says it's better, but how is it to work with and does that 5% chrome prevent a black oxide finish (blueing)? I'm guessing it does. How does it polish up? I sometimes like a shiny finish. Thanks for your suggestions, I've just never come across it in my job experience. I must add that I am real picky about edge holding ability and am poor, so kinda cheap. |
#2
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You need to consider buying a heat treat oven. Anyhow, A-2 holds an edge a little better than 01, and noticeably better than 440-C. The only real problem I have with A-2 is the high price.
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#3
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I think many wood workers would tell you the A2 blades do give a longer lasting sharp edge over O1, but with an increase of time on the water stones.
You can make a piece of A2 hard with your forge, but will not be anywhere near what the performance of A2 is capable of. A2 requires a precise temperature to be held for 30 minutes, usually around 1750f. With that comes necessary decarb protection, usually SS foil, or anti scale compound. Quench is easier than O1, for obvious reasons, just still air will harden it, but then there is the retained austenite to consider, and a sub zero quench (-100f) is needed to deal with it. The Cr indeed will inhibit a blued finish to some extent. |
#4
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Thanks for your replies. Texas Knifemakers does the cryo treatment for an extra $4 a knife and even my O1 gets the dry ice overnight as well since it has 0.5% chrome and tungsten it helps. Jantz supply has A2 at a decent price and I've usually bought my O1 from them as well. The A2 is much less expensive than their D2 which is my favorite knife making steel so I thought I'd give it a try.
Can't buy a kiln as I live in an apartment. I have my belt sander mounted on a cart and I go outside to grind.LOL Last edited by jimmontg; 03-05-2016 at 02:25 PM. |
#5
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I have made a knife from A2. It has a mirror finish on it. It polishes well for sure. I can't compare it to many other steels though because I have only made knifes from L6, D2 and A2
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#6
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I too had done an A2 knife. Now in process of making L6
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Tags |
440c, blade, blades, carbon, edge, files, forge, forging, harden, heat, heat treat, knife, knife making, knives, made, make, mirror, polish, problem, sharp, shop, steel, supply, welding, wood |
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