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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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leather
This probably should be in leather but I get more help in the newbie area.
Hubby bought a Pug of the week end. There holsters are over $30 for only 2 or 3 in. of leather I think I can do better. Problem: I want to make a molded fit but I also want to add some tooling. Molding is done soaking wet tooling is kept damp, which do I do 1st, molding or tooling? Here is a good example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/leather-tool...item4ac137a354 |
#2
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I would think you'd need to do the tooling first while the leather is still flat. After the sheath has been shaped tooling the pattern would seem to be much more difficult. Of course, some tooling or stamping can be done after shaping but exactly what is possible would depend on just how much contour the shaping created......
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#3
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I'm no pro when it comes to this but I have experienced some problems when wet forming after the tooling. Any areas that were formed lost most of the tooling.
__________________ J, Saccucci Knives, JSK |
#4
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I've lost tooling just oiling saddles and I was being real careful. There must be something to coat tooling to make it hold up stronger
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#5
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I would say that you will naturally lose some tooling definition as the leather is stretched. I can see it in my sheaths where they bend. Be sure to get a good, solid impression when properly cased. You could also use a hilighter to help the tooling stand out. I'm really too new to leatherwork to be of more help.
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#6
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Thanks guys I will play w/ it in a few days and take pics but I need help w/ posting pics too.
here is a pic of the pug 2 1/2" from the barrow to the trigger and 2 3/4" to the lever. It is a lot bigger then their standard .22 LR. Not much to make a holster for. I like them both better then a Dillinger because you get 5 shots not 2. http://www.shootingillustrated.com/i...ican-arms-pug/ |
#7
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On something that small, I'd be more interested in how the holster worked than how it looked. It should be concealed anyway, no one should see it, and carving leather holsters just weakens them in the long haul. If it were me, I'd use thin leather, mold it well, and forget any type of decoration ...
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#8
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I'm w/ you Ray. I am using one of my personnel favorites (elk) soft yet strong. I made a pattern for a folder and welt the strap not sure yet.
After I fold the elk w/ welt in place I could be done but I want to add a strap so If I take a nice 1" wide piece of leather I can curve around the top edge light curve on the bottom edge then tool this piece I can sew this on before I sew the fold shut it will allow a nice snap on the front that won't scratch anything. Sew the strap on the back and wrap it forward over the trigger and snap it on. So the little piece I am tooling is about 1" wide goes front over the top and around the back 4 1/2" long Then I want to make him a simple arm or ankle nylon case It is the full 8-9 oz leather molded full grain w/ extra on each side for belt loops this is the one I question. Mold 1st then tool but I need something very small to put in vice like a pipe about a quarter in size I can put molded leather over very small but flat area and do little bits at a time. All I can do is try but what I won't do is pay $30 for a plain holster if I feel I can do better. Ray can we go over posting pics during chat on Sunday? |
#9
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Sure, Lee, you know we talk about anything and everything on those chats. Try using the Edit button on your post and then the Manage Attachments button on that screen, you should be able to add some pics to your post that way ...
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Tags |
bee, blade, carving, coat, edge, flat, folder, forge, help., holster, holsters, leather, make, molding, newbie, nylon, pattern, post, sheath, sheaths, simple, strap, wrap |
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