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The Folding Knife (& Switchblade) Forum The materials, techniques and the designing of folding knives.

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  #1  
Old 02-14-2010, 09:14 PM
22H2 22H2 is offline
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sugestions on slipjoint spring

I just finished heat treating and tempering a spring for a slip joint currently working on. After tempering the hardness tested in the high 30 rockwell c don't know what happened but I will need to correct. My question how do I re-heat treat or can I temper again to change hardness? I flashed tempered at 400 for two hours as soon as it came out and tempered at 1150 for two hours twice. any sugestions?

thanks
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  #2  
Old 02-14-2010, 09:37 PM
son_of_bluegras son_of_bluegras is offline
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Any further tempering without hardening first will only soften the steel further.

Knowing what steel you are using will help to answer your questions.

I've made a couple using 1095. For that steel 1150 would be way too hot for tempering. For 1095, if memory serves correctly, I tempered at 550 F.

ron


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  #3  
Old 02-15-2010, 07:55 AM
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Don Robinson Don Robinson is offline
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I'm with Ron.

You annealed it.

We can't help you without know what steel it is.
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  #4  
Old 02-15-2010, 12:07 PM
22H2 22H2 is offline
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sorry, it is ats 34
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Old 02-15-2010, 06:04 PM
22H2 22H2 is offline
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Don/Ron is it annealed enough to re heat treat? (ats 34)
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Old 02-15-2010, 09:30 PM
zerogee zerogee is offline
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For ATS34 springs, one recommended process is to harden at 1900F and then do the spring temper (for 43-45RC, it's 1200F for 2 hrs (I'd only do it once, not twice) -- bring the temp down a bit if you want a bit harder springs). Don't mess about with the flash tempers in between -- though I wouldn't expect them to hurt anything other than making unnecessary work. I'm really wondering if your temperature control is hosing up -- by getting that soft it makes me think the temp got significantly above 1150F during your tempering - that or they never really hardened properly in the first place. I'd reharden, then check first to see if they actually hardened.

Last edited by zerogee; 02-15-2010 at 09:40 PM.
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Old 02-16-2010, 07:16 AM
22H2 22H2 is offline
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thanks zerogee, to re harden do I just go through the hardening cycle again or do I need to anneal first?
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Old 02-16-2010, 07:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 22H2 View Post
Don/Ron is it annealed enough to re heat treat? (ats 34)
Yes, just start over.

From what i've gathered here, i think your problem was caused by the initial hardening. If you quenched from 1900, you were right at the edge of the proper temperature range, which is 1900 to 2000.

I just went out to the shop and checked my records. For ATS34 springs, this is the formula I've used with success:

1920 to 1950 for 30 minutes, prefer 1950.

Flash temper at 350 2 hrs.

cryo in dry ice overnight

Springs only now, temper at 1150 two hours

temper at 1150 again for 2 hrs.

result 49Rc

Without cryo, this should yield around 47-48Rc.

Last edited by Don Robinson; 02-16-2010 at 07:40 AM.
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Old 02-16-2010, 09:21 AM
22H2 22H2 is offline
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thanks Don, I will start over today
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Old 02-16-2010, 10:13 AM
zerogee zerogee is offline
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Note that if you are *not* doing cryo, then the flash tempers are not needed.

Last edited by Don Robinson; 02-16-2010 at 10:40 AM.
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Old 02-16-2010, 10:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zerogee View Post
Note that if you are *not* doing cryo, then the flash tempers are not needed.
Sorry to disagree, but this isn't true.

If you don't have a second heat treat furnace in which to temper immediately after the quench, then you must flash temper in order to keep the built-up stresses from cracking the steel while you wait for your furnace to cool down to tempering temperature.
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Old 02-16-2010, 10:56 AM
zerogee zerogee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Robinson View Post
Sorry to disagree, but this isn't true.

If you don't have a second heat treat furnace in which to temper immediately after the quench, then you must flash temper in order to keep the built-up stresses from cracking the steel while you wait for your furnace to cool down to tempering temperature.
Ah, well, in that case, sure.
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Old 02-16-2010, 09:41 PM
22H2 22H2 is offline
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ok re heat treated the spring 1925 for two hours, flash tempered for 1 hour at 350 and tempered at 1150 for two hour I got 42-43 on hardness. I would like to have at least 45-48 any sugestion. the spring seems to work well. just would feel better if it was harder.
thanks
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  #14  
Old 02-17-2010, 06:55 AM
Kirby Bletcher Kirby Bletcher is offline
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When making springs I always find it easier to reach my target hardness by starting out with a lower temperature. Never heat treat anything at an suggested temperature until you have figured out a formula that works with you equipment. So if someone suggest a draw temp of 1125-1150 start at 1025 and check hardness. From there you can increasing in 25 or 50 degree intervals. It takes a little time but you only have to do it this way one time if you record every little detail on the way.

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  #15  
Old 02-17-2010, 08:11 AM
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thanks Kirby, If I understand correctly you think my temper may be to high? Would it hurt anything to temper the same part multiple times until I get the hardness correct moving up in temp with each temper? Once I find the right temp can I just start there the next time or will the multiple tempers change the formula some? sorry for all the questions just trying to get the best spring that I can.

Ted
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