Liner Lock Finally

Ater heat treat is the time to take out any kinks in the blade. This is where a surface grinder really shines. Unfortunately, I used my Bader on the platen and my disc grinder. Blade is shown here after grinding flat again. Sorry for the delay, I'll be grinding the blade next.

I know, strange place for this but I said I'd try and get a shot of it. I was laying out another folder and had the stuff out, so I thought I'd show the pattern material I use. Works great and I centerpunch throug the mylar.

Rough out bolsters.



Here I am drilling out relief for pivot pin screw. I hide my pivot and screw bolsters on with 0-80 button head screws.



Setting my depth for my countesink. This is .050", so I am sure to have plenty of bolster material left over after shaping.



Drilling counterink for pivot screw relief.



Countersink done to clear pivot. I do this on both bolsters.

I drill the back bolster hole to #56, 0-80 pilot.



I drill my other bolster off my 1st one, aligning the back of the bolsters.



I tap this screwhole to 0-80 and install back bolster screw.



Drilling out front hole to #56.



Now drilling bolster to 0-80 clearance size, #52.

I install and rough grind my bolsters.

Bolsters have been fit, all tapped and installed. Scales have been rough fit and ready to final fit.



Scales are final fit, ready to drill holes. One shot here.

Match drilling scales with #56 while clamped to liners.


Drilling scales through with a #52 drill, or 0-80 learance size.


Countersinking scales with a ##32 drill to desired depth.

Ok... Notice a change in handle material here?
Shows how quick you can lose a $100 set of scales. Disc sander grabbed one of the other ones and tried to pass it by the rest. Still haven't found all of it.

I fit another set of mammoth and backed up a few steps...

Tapping scale screw holes.



Screws need to be ground flush.



Grinding screws flush against liners.

Rough grinding scales to liner profile. Careful not to overheat.



Bolsters and scales installed and rough fit/ground.

I spray layout on my blade and mark for grinding.



Here I'm ready to grind my blade. Notice layout.



Hollow grinding the blade. All my work here is done hard, remeber.



Blade ground. Hardened steel grinds like a dream. I think those that have not tried it will like it.

making sure everything opens and closes...



Blade needs to tuck inside knife. I'll take a little off the bottom of the blade.



Getting bottom of blade ground to where tip just tucks into liners.



Getting everything even.



Blade now tucks all the way and is working the way it needs to.

Laying out lock. Scribe your lock with blade full against stop pin, then extend lock down blade. I go at least 2"-2 1/2"



Using a dremel and a reinforced cutoff wheel, I gut along the scribed lockbar line.



I now cut "almost" through to the dremel'd cut, leaving a little attached for now.



I'm drilling detent hole in blade in top corner of lockbar. I'm using a 1/16" ball on this blade, so I drill 1 or 2 # sizes under. Now I cut through the lockbar the rest of the way.

I clamp a jig to set lock away from rest of liner. Now I can handwork without marring it.



Filing lock.



Sanding lock to 400g or so.

Knife is opening and locking up.



Knife almost together. Opening and closing. Lockup looks good, just a bit short. I'll final fit till it "just" locks at 100%.



Here, I have chucked a 2-56 screw and SS thumbob in my lathe. This is an easy way to dress up a box stock thumbob. I turn these down and add filework or cabachons, etc...



Thumbob on knife. Cab installed.