Anodizing

[navajas]

You can use finger nail polish for masking. Use a color you can see. ( AS PER TOM) I have tried it it works.
Roland

[K_Conrad]

I really apriciate everyone's input.. Its nice to be new to a forum, and even newer to the topic of the forum and not be treated like an idiot (dispite how much of an idiot i might be )

On some of the other thread about anodizing, there are refrences to DC not being that dangerous ect... BUT in Mr Howell's tutorial he is using a VariAC .... does it matter to the Ti if you use DC Vs. AC? or is it that the DC is definately easier to work with (and has less "bite")?
The VariAC listed on Ebay are pretty #### cheap, and the DC's are a little more, but not enough to concern one....so which would provide the best results?

[Bob Warner]

DC is a requirement.

The variac varies the voltage but you must convert to DC before your anode and cathode.

You can build the anodizer like Jason did. If you need a drawing, go to my site and look at the tools link. There is a diagram there for building one.

[Ray Rogers]

I'd like to add a little to the question of whether or not DC is dangerous. You've all seen Van DeGraf generators, probably in high school and in movies. They make a staic field that harmlessly causes your hair to stand up. The one I used in school generated about 200,000 volts of DC.

A common flashlight battery is 1.5 volts DC and you know you can't hurt yourself with that. Even if you hook up 8 of them to make 12 volts DC you can't hurt yourself with it.

But, if you grab the terminals on your average 12 volt DC car battery it will ruin your whole day! The difference is in the amount of amperage available.

So, a word of caution: if you are going to build your own anodizer there is no way we can predict from here how much amperage you may end up having available. How much you have probably won't have a material effect on how well the anodizer does its job but it could very well make a difference if you touch the wrong thing at the wrong time.

Don't take anything for granted. Wear rubber gloves and make sure you know when the power is on and when it is off. It should only be on for the few seconds you are actually trying to put color on the titanium.

Be cautious, be careful, and be safe...

[brendan]

Somebody once suggested to me that when dealing with electricity, if at all possible, work with one hand while keeping the other hand in your pocket.

The thinking behind it was that an electric shock is most dangerous when it passes through your heart. By keeping one hand out of the picture, the only path the electricity has is in and out the same hand, or down through your feet. A much better option than in one hand, across your chest, and out the other hand.

Logically it makes sense to me, so I try to follow when I can.

Brendan

[K_Conrad]

So, In retrospect.....
1)In using a VariAC, the Full Wave Bridge is what converts the current to DC? Which is the ONLY way to Fly so to speak.
So If I bought a variable DC supply I only need hook up both ends of the leads (anode and cathode).. but if I get a variable AC source I need the full wave bridge?

2)Having clean distilled H20 and fresh TSP is a must.. to avoid complications in color and pitting.

3) colors are Voltage dependant, and the size of the project is what determins a need for larger amprage (bigger pieces such as a bike frame would need higher amp's..but small knife peices can get away with lower amps?)

[Bob Warner]

1. I agree

2. I agree

3. Not so fast. The amphereage as far as I know would never need to be over about 6 amps. The only thing that needs to change if you have a larger piece could be the cathode. The cathode has to be larger than the part being colored.

[K_Conrad]

I had forgotten to mention the cathode size... as I understand it the surface area of the cathode should (at least) be greater than the surface area of the anode (or, the piece being anodized).

I havent heard any specifics on amperage, so I assumed that it wasnt that important... but >6A sounds like a nice safe place to work with... Thanks again guys.. Im off to ebay now to see if I can track down some cheap power

[Jamey Saunders]

I don't know what voltages and amperages are required, but here's a circuit for a variable DC power supply.
http://www.aaroncake.net/circuits/supply.htm


It puts out 1.2-30VDC at 5 amps. Seems like this would be cheaper to build than the design using a VariAC. I looked for those, and they're expensive, even used.

What say ye, O Anodizing Gurus? Would this work in place of using a bridge rectifier with a VariAC?

PS: I'd probably include the voltmeter.

[Ray Rogers]

I don't know about the guru part but here's my 2 pennies:

Yes, it would work if it provides 0 - 30 volts DC. With that range you can get most of the colors that are easy to get. Having 50 volts available would be better but, honestly, I rarely use more than 30.

Once, I use 2 6V lantern batteries and was able to get color so this should be much better than that....

[Jamey Saunders]

I really believe this circuit could be made to output up to 50v. I think all you'd have to do is replace the 30v regulator with a 50v model. But I don't remember much from my electronic engineering classes in college.:confused:

[Bob Warner]

I never took any classes to forget what I learned but I agree 50V would be better.