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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #1  
Old 09-12-2016, 10:03 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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greeseless compound

hey guys so I am wondering if any one use's greaseless compound this stuff.....

https://trugrit.com/index.php?main_p...b8d452a732de3e

on that site it doesn't have a description or anything but I have read it needs lubar (or some other lubricant) some say only on aluminum. ?? trying to figure out if its any good and if I definitely need the lubar stuff to?
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Old 09-12-2016, 10:30 AM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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I always prefer greaseless compounds but why do you even think you need this compound, especially if you don't know what it is for?

This stuff is intended to produce a dry satin finish, it is aggressive and will blur any grind lines you might have if you aren't careful with it...


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Old 09-12-2016, 11:59 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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yes I do know its for satin finish I was thinking of the higher grits probily 600. for 2 reasons number one is to use it as its for a satin finish I am curious as to how it would looked compared to hand rubbed finish. also I was thinking maybe it could help in a polished finished yeh I get its aggressive so that would be before the other compounds thought it MIGHT speed up the process getting rid of previous scratches but wasn't sure how aggressive a 600 grit tube would finish out and what coupound would follow it but not sure on how it would work in that application that's why I asked I did check out other sites that sell it and did a search and couldn't find to much info on how agresive it is compared to other compounds or what the satin finish you could achieve with it looks like ....not much info on the stuff that I could find except that lubricant is needed "sometimes" and jantz says only need lube with aluminum
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Old 09-12-2016, 12:38 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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Polishing is never the way to remove any scratches except those fine scratches left by the previous level of polishing. In other words, nothing but the very finest of scratches should be removed by polishing. Try to polish out even 400 grit scratches and you'll probably end up with a wavy finish - shiny, but wavy.

As for how it looks compared to any other method you'll just have to try it and see. No two people will use exactly the same process so the results are always personal .....


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Old 09-12-2016, 02:23 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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yeh your right about scratch lines I would never start to polish after a 400 grit belt but Is say 400 grit greaseless compound produce the same effect as a 400 grit belt? I had read a few things a while back that certain compounds leave a much higher finish that equivalent belt I took that to mean 400 grit compound might leave a finish closer to what you would get off a 800 grit belt. I don't remember everything about what I read on that it was a while ago and I don't think it was talking about this specific product but that was another thing I wasn't sure of. ray I know you said everyone uses it differently and yeh everyone has different opinions but what do you think in your opinion does it produce a better looking finish than a scotch brite belt would? to me a hand satin finish looks much better than a scotch brit belt obviously the belt is quicker and easier I am just wondering if the compound might fall somewhere in the middle
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Old 09-12-2016, 04:08 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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You are right that the grit values in different media are not equivalent. As for what looks best, some of the answer to that will depend on how you are able to apply it. If you try to do a satin finish with a buffer and compounds you may create a lot of work for yourself in trying to remove enough of the polishing lines to get a clean finish.

What I'm saying is, if you do a hand finish with fine sand paper (which is probably the best way) you have a finish with nice straight lines. These lines are nothing more than carefully arranged and very fine scratches but the virtually disappear to the eye by virtue of their perfect alignment. Now you start polishing on that with any compound and right away you are going to make those scratches visible, mostly because you probably can't buff in a perfectly straight line that matches the sandpaper finish. Any cross movement will make those scratches stand out. From there, all you can do is more and more polishing until you either get things lined up again or managed to polish out the scratches. Once you have succeeded at that your finish will likely be more shiny than satin.

The best looking satin finish vs the effort involved that I have found is simply using belts to 400 or whatever grit you like, followed by a few minutes of hand sanding with paper in that last grit, and then optionally followed by a very quick blending done with a ScotchBright belt. Just like in the DVD . Not saying a better finish isn't possible, only that its a darned nice finish accomplished with minimal effort and - most importantly - time ....


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Old 09-12-2016, 08:19 PM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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Ray is right, if you want a satin finish go to 400 and finish with 600 by hand or fine scotch brite. No need to make it harder. I go 400 and finish 500 diamond which is brighter than 800 grit. There are also scotch brite wheels too.
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Old 09-13-2016, 08:02 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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ok ray your deffinitly right about having straight lines that didn't even cross my mind and probilly wouldn't until I tried it, also ill have to watch that part of the video again I don't remember the exact order you did the scotch brite belt. I have never gone from belt to hand back to scotch brite belt wouldn't the scotch brite belt produce the same un straight lines as going to a buffer? I know the material is not uniform but does still produce scratch lines.... I have always either gone from a regular belt straight to scotch brite belt or regular belt to hand sand paper to scotch brite pad by hand...ill have to try it the other way and see how it comes out
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