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  #1  
Old 03-16-2003, 10:20 PM
Jason Cutter Jason Cutter is offline
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Question Working Concealex (?like Kydex?)

Hi guys, wanting to get some of that funky looking carbon fibre coated Concealex Alex and the CKD Admin have for sale via Knifekits.com.

Question - how does it work vs. Kydex. Any quirks and does the surface CF-looking finish make a difference ? ?Scratch resistance ? Any ideas are much appreciated, cos I'm looking to my next project.

Thanks in advance. Jason.


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  #2  
Old 04-07-2003, 12:23 PM
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Darrel Ralph Darrel Ralph is offline
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Yes , Working concealx is very close to to kydex.
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  #3  
Old 04-07-2003, 12:59 PM
Andrew Lynch Andrew Lynch is offline
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I've heard that concealex will curl up when heated, so don't think you've ruined it or something. Also, I heard that concealex is less forgiving as far as reheating it several times goes.

That said, I'm dying to try the cf concealex too!!
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  #4  
Old 04-07-2003, 01:17 PM
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Darrel Ralph Darrel Ralph is offline
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Hi Folks,
The .06 concealx is a little curly. It depends on the heat you use to form it.
I turn the heat down a few degrees and watch it close.
The .09 thickness lays pretty flat when heated.
Once again the temp is a little lower for the concealx is all I have found.
It great material!

As for reheating. I have never had much luck reheating kydex or concealx. I can touch them up a bit with a heat gun. That's about it.

I use an old toaster oven to heat the material.
They are about 5.00 at the thrift stores here
!
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  #5  
Old 04-07-2003, 04:11 PM
Jason Cutter Jason Cutter is offline
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Curly concealex ?

Many thanks for the replies guys. Alex and the admin guys were so kind as to provide me with a sheet to use to "check it out" but I was chicken.

When you say curly when heated, do you mean it can be flattened down with the moulding stage or does it just like to stay fixed like that ? I use the moulding foam to press fit Kydex over the knife and keep it in there till it is cool enough to maintain its shape, then do the detailed work with a small tea-light candle or cigarette lighter. I now only need a single go to get the main moulding correct and everything else is for details.

Is it simply a case of being more careful and getting it right 1st time ?

Thanks again, cheers. Jason.


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  #6  
Old 04-08-2003, 04:30 AM
PS_Bond PS_Bond is offline
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I've only just started playing with Kydex, so can't really comment much on either material - however, I've been using a butane powered soldering iron with a hot air blower head on it for fine-tuning things. Possibly a little more controllable than a tealight?

I've found that the Kydex - when heated with a heat gun - has a bit of a tendency to curl up, so I flip it over & heat the opposite side too.

Peter
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  #7  
Old 04-08-2003, 07:11 AM
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Darrel Ralph Darrel Ralph is offline
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Peter,
Its best to not tune the sheath at all.
When you make the first pressing that should be the end of the heat.
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  #8  
Old 04-08-2003, 07:46 AM
PS_Bond PS_Bond is offline
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Cheers, Darrell -

A couple of sheaths have ended up a little too well formed around the guards. This is fine until I rivet the sheaths...

The fine tuning is to splay the throat of the sheath fractionally so that reinsertion is easier/feasible.

Peter
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  #9  
Old 04-08-2003, 08:09 AM
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Darrel Ralph Darrel Ralph is offline
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Hey Pete,
Try a little masking tape on the guard area when you form.
Once you get the hang of where to put the tape it will splay in one pressing.
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Old 04-08-2003, 10:10 AM
PS_Bond PS_Bond is offline
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Ahh.... (Understanding dawns).

I'd only been building up the blade with tape, not the guard.

I'll go try that when I get home.

Ta,

Peter
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  #11  
Old 04-08-2003, 10:20 AM
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Darrel Ralph Darrel Ralph is offline
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Yep
Works great.
No work after you press!
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  #12  
Old 04-08-2003, 04:00 PM
Jason Cutter Jason Cutter is offline
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Thanks guys. That was great.

All that "thinking-out-loud" has really helped me get my head around this issue. I suppose its time to try out some ...

Thanks again for the input. Jason.


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  #13  
Old 04-09-2003, 12:44 AM
Andrew Lynch Andrew Lynch is offline
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Darrel--frankly, I generally do have to do some adjustments around the mouth of the sheath to facilitate knife insertion and aesthetics. I work with many knives that have thick handles, handles that would take pounds of tape to make adjustment after molding unnecessary. Don't get me wrong--no adjustment is great, but I wouldn't exactly consider it a rule.

I use more than tape to prep a handle for molding. I also put foam behind the retention area(s) so that I will do most of the forming in the mold.
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  #14  
Old 06-07-2003, 11:53 AM
akraven akraven is offline
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Whats a good glue for working with the Concealex? Hows Concelaex's performance in cold compared to Kydex? Thanks for the help
akraven@alaska.net
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  #15  
Old 06-07-2003, 12:24 PM
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Darrel Ralph Darrel Ralph is offline
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Andrew,
I feel the same way you do.
There are no hard and set rules for forming plastic.
It's all the way a person envison the situation.

As for the concealx to kydex in cold situations, I have not had any problem with either in cold.
I have found that kydex when over heated will shrink big time.
The concealx will not. I like this!
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