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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #1  
Old 03-06-2013, 05:31 PM
Eli Jensen's Avatar
Eli Jensen Eli Jensen is offline
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4x36 Plunge

Per request, here is some information on getting a clean plunge with a 4x36. I use a jig to do my plunge. A 4x36 is just too shakes, slides, rocks, flaps too much to do it freehand. I've been doing a lot more freehand on it, but always use the jig for the plunge. One important thing to keep in mine, is that once you cut it, you cannot go back because the belt won't track any more to the left, and so the raised part of the plunge blocks you from getting the belt in there. So as you can see in one of the pics, I leave 1/4" when grinding pre HT, then after HT leave it alone until read for the final grit and shape it with that belt.


Here is the set up



Here is the jig. Pretty high tech




The bottom is how I leave it until ready for the final grit belt, which is usually 120. Then the plunge is cut on the top side. I try and get a nice even curve. Takes practice. I usually do the reverse side first, which is the side of the 4x36 that won't allow the tracking to come farther left. Then I try and mimick my results on the other side.



Then I perfect the plunge radius with 220 grit sandpaper and a chainsaw file. The size file depends on the size knife and radius I want. Not that this technique is most compatible with sanded finishes. You're probably not going to get a good belt/machined finish on a 4x36.


After I do that, its still not usually perfect, so I take my normal sanding back which is chisel shaped in the front, and hit it with a circular motion



Then I'll sand horizontally, making sure to hit the plunge pretty good, but not going over (that would round it).



Be careful not to go overboard with the sandpaper and file, you don't want to sand to a level lower than the bevel. If you've done that, you've just created a crap ton more work for yourself.



And there you have it. A 2x72 is probably much superior, but a 4x36 is very usable and a great step up from files, and a WHOLE LOT cheaper than any 2x72.
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Old 03-06-2013, 08:42 PM
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hondo76 hondo76 is offline
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here is a pic of my 4x36 i had a platform built but i removed it when i started trying to learn to "free hand" wich turned out exactly like you probably think it did lmao


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Old 03-06-2013, 08:44 PM
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hondo76 hondo76 is offline
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also got any more pics of your gringing jig?
i need to build me a bench like that in front of my grinder!


did you remove the wheel from your grinder?
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Old 03-06-2013, 09:00 PM
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Eli Jensen Eli Jensen is offline
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I did. You get a little more power without it. Your platen is quite a bit wider than mine. I can imagine you'd have trouble with the plunge on that. I'd cut off the sides or add a thin platen on top of that one, althought I'm not sure how that'd work.

Also, I freehand with the 4x36 level, instead of upright.

I'll get more pics of the jig later.
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Old 03-06-2013, 10:15 PM
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ricky_arthur ricky_arthur is offline
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When I was using a 4X36 I simply adjusted the tracking and moved the belt over to the right and cut in the right plunge and then moved it over to the left and cut the left. No filing needed. `
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Old 03-06-2013, 10:32 PM
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hondo76 hondo76 is offline
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Good call I lay mine down when I free hand as Well. I'm gonna look at ways to modify it and see What I can come up with.
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Old 03-07-2013, 08:15 AM
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Eli Jensen Eli Jensen is offline
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Ya Ricky I adjust the tracking as well but on the left side it will only go so far which makes it a PITA sometimes. I've been meaning to cut into my platen so the edge of the platen where the belt is is square instead of rounded but . . . .
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