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#1
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drill bits
I am wanting to start collecting ( a piece or 2 at a time) a good set of cobalt drill bits. What point would be best for general stuff and knifemaking and any other qualifications would be helpful . Any source for them ? MSC ?
thanks Dave |
#2
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I buy mine from MSC. I buy the Cobalt drills in screw machine length (very short) and heve never found a reason to worry about what point they have. i think most have been 118, some have been split point, but whatever they are they all seem to put accurate holes in titanium and that's about where I stop being concerned about it....
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#3
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I thought screw machine length was longer than jobber ? I dont want jobber. I want regular length ones..I thought The set I want was 220ish for complete set 1/16th thru 1/2 in 64ths . So I figured 4 or 5 here and there I could build it up .
Dave |
#4
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I personally like the jobber length drills with 118 degree points with TiN coating.
Whatever type of drills you choose to get, start by getting all of the tap drills and clearance drills for screws from #0 on up to about 3/8" in UNF and UNC threads, along with standard sizes like 1/16", 3/16", 1/4", etc. That should get you a good start. Don't forget a drill bit case. The large cases that hold letter, number, and fractional sized drills are really nice. edit: I also purchase from MSC. Mike L. |
#5
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I have 0-60 in a drill index and they are jobber. Its an ok set.Bought from Enco but USA made.
Dave |
#6
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I like to use 135 degree split points on steel and 118 degree drills on my handle material. The split points cut through steel nicely, but they tend to break out the exterior of natural material when they exit. I was told by a machinist friend that is due to the flatter angle pushing the material more aggressively. The angle on the 118 exits the material with less force. I've noticed a difference since I started following his advice.
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#7
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I bought a couple of sets containing 115 drills in lettered, numbered and Imperial sizes, TIN coated, jobber length, from Harbor Freight for about $39 each. I use these when I find a need for some size that I don't have on hand in a cobalt drill.
Once you go through the process of making a few knives you'll know what size drills you need. Whatever sizes they are you can bet that there will be a lot less than 115 of them! So, because the cobalt drills are expensive I just buy what I need and replace them as I wear them out. When I find out I need an additional size, I use the HF drills to fill my immediate need and order some cobalt in that size with my next MSC order.... |
#8
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Hey Ray, does UPS just use air drop when you order something ? That or he cusses you when he has to drive out in the sticks to deliver it !
Dave |
#9
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Oh, they do cuss, you betcha! Fact is, their 2WD trucks can't get here in the winter so they leave my packages at the Post Office about 10 miles away.
Who says UPS won't deliver to a PO Box.....hehehehe........ |
#10
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I prefer cobalt split point 135 degree for most every thing. I have been using them for years. I use jobber length. I have learned to back up any natural material that might break out with scrap wood.
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#11
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They have HSS Cobalt and Cobalt. What is the difference and what ones it better ?
Dave |
#12
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I don't think there is a difference. I believe HSS is usually M2 and cobalt drills are M2 with cobalt added. Sounds like just a different way to say the same thing. But, if you'll provide some links to what you're looking at it might shed some light on the subject ....
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#13
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If their is one on the forum with experieance with Carbide; Could you explain the advantage to one over the other when it is compaired to cobalt. Knowing that carbide is more brittel; But as far as cutting aspects in hardened steel and Titanium. Thanks Jim
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#14
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http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/N2DRVS...00000006726746
then do the UNDO on the material and go to HSS Cobalt. one is 3.50 ish and other is 15.oo ish. big difference. I am just going to get the ones I need to toying with folders now. Dave |
#15
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Dave,
That link doesn't work so I looked in my MSC catalog. I see categories for HSS and Coblat but not HSS Cobalt. I don't know where the confusion is coming from here. For a price difference that large I would have to guess that you are looking at a large drill, maybe near a half inch. In that case, those prices would be possible for HSS ($3.50) and for Cobalt ($15) although if you shop MSC carefully for screw machine length you can reduce those prices. It's a lot easier to compare all the different drills and manufacturers when you have the MSC catalog. Jim, Carbide is harder and much more expensive. If you need to drill a hole in a hardened blade a carbide straight flute drill is the best you can get. Titanium is not all that hard and cobalt drills are best for that and for non-hardened steels.... |
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blade, forge, knife, knives |
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