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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #1  
Old 10-16-2006, 02:06 AM
Luke Peter Luke Peter is offline
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Question peening pins

Hello all.

I am making a knife for a friend and plan to use two steel slabs for the handle, I read that I should cone the pins(5 mil brazing rod) and then peen the coned parts to fill the tapered hole in the slabs. I dont want to try this and then stuff it up, can anyone confirm that this works, or suggest a different method?

Thanks in advance.

Luke
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  #2  
Old 10-16-2006, 02:10 AM
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mknife mknife is offline
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Hi Luke,
it is the just method.

Riccardo
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  #3  
Old 10-16-2006, 08:44 AM
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I would also countersink where the pins are going just a little bit. This gives them somewhere to expand into and also helps pull it down a little more. I just started doing that with the bolsters on a couple of kits and it works awesome.


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Old 10-16-2006, 09:15 AM
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Thad Buchanan Thad Buchanan is offline
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Luke, you're using the right approach. A common mistake that people make is to leave the pins too long. You only need about .050 exposed on either side of your handle material to get the job done. It will peen easier and do a better job of filling the hole. If the pins are too long you really have to work at it to make your pins spread out enough and often times you'll leave a visible ring or crescent around your hole.

.050 doesn't sound like much and it won't look like it's enough, but it is. Just get one side spread a little and then turn it over and peen the other side. That way you won't suck one side up into your hole and leave you short on material.

Thad


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Old 10-16-2006, 09:25 AM
Dan Graves Dan Graves is offline
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Brazing rods will work but are harder to peen than regular brass. (try cutting with a wire cutter and then get some regular brass and try to cut those, you can really feel the diggerence) They generally are a thousounths or so larger than an 1/8 inch and make for a gripe to fit. For best results get some regular annealed brass.


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Old 10-17-2006, 03:10 AM
Luke Peter Luke Peter is offline
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Thanks guys, i assume that .050 is in inches, the brazing rod that i am using is slightly thinner than 5 mil and is therefore perfect for a five mil hole...1/8 inch = 0.3175 cm = 3.1 mil. ive got like 4.9 mil brazing rod, it seems quite soft, so it sholdnt be a problem to peen.

Any suggestions as to how much the holes in the slabs should be tapered and how much i should cone the pins?

Thanks again.

Luke
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  #7  
Old 10-17-2006, 08:18 AM
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JediOkie JediOkie is offline
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Not very much on the slabs. I just take a drill that is one size larger than the pin material and slowly take away just a little material until I can see the 'cone'. I'm sure it will be a lot easier once I get a drill press but it can be done with a hand drill. Also I wanted to add that I have only done it on softer materials so it is probably a little more different on steel slabs.


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  #8  
Old 10-20-2006, 09:00 PM
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You don't cone the pins.

I use a plain old woodworkers brad point drill (just the tapered brad point) to make a very small c'sink about 1/32" deep by hand.

As said before, leave the pin length with about 1/2 of it's diameter sticking out both sides. Don't peen straight down. Peen all around the edge of the pin to make it mushroom out and fill the c'sink. And as said before, peen a little on one side and turn it over often to get both sides even.

Grind the pin flush and it should be invisible. If not, lightly peen around the outside edges to blend the pin and bolster/steel scale material together. Grind it smooth again. If you can still see the pin, do it over again. That is, if the scales and pins are made of the same material. If not, then you shouldn't see anything after finishing flush except the pin head.

You're welcome.

Last edited by Don Robinson; 10-20-2006 at 09:04 PM.
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  #9  
Old 10-20-2006, 10:58 PM
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Anneal your pin stock, what ever kind you use. Makes life a bit easier.
Soft metals like brass, copper, nickle silver are annealed by heating to cherry red and then quenching in water. Steel has to be slow cooled just as you would blade stock.


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