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Historical Inspiration This forum is dedicated to the discussion of historical knife design and its influence on modern custom knife work.

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  #1  
Old 04-26-2006, 01:48 PM
Jesse Frank Jesse Frank is offline
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Anglo Seax

Hey everybody,

Here is an anglo saxon styled seax inspired by originals pulled from the Thames. The blade is 12" with an edge of W1, and cores of 1095 and 15n20. The handle is water buffalo horn, silver, mastodon bone and steel, with a mastodon one buttcap with silver pins.



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Old 04-26-2006, 03:47 PM
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may I ask why you chose W1?
it's quite elegant.
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Old 04-26-2006, 03:59 PM
Jesse Frank Jesse Frank is offline
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Thanks!

I use W1 firstly because it's an excellent blade steel, and secondly, because I can get it in square stock suitable for this type of work


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Old 04-26-2006, 04:22 PM
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Purdy.


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Old 04-26-2006, 04:33 PM
Coutel Coutel is offline
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Very nice.


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Old 04-26-2006, 04:33 PM
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Square stock is better than flat stock ?

I haven't forged anything more complicated than a nail in a home-made ghetto forge. It was fun and all, but after I discovered that the vacuum could run backwards and the bucket of nuggets I threw in the fire was furnace coke and not coal, my steel melted, and I became a little discontented with myself.
then I had to move.

W1 means "water-cooled"?
Can you quench any of the 10xx series in water too?

sorry for all the questions.
I'm asking because I've been looking inot making a Seax for some time,
and just don't feel I know enough.
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Old 04-26-2006, 06:24 PM
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#### nice seax Jesse,I love it.


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Old 04-26-2006, 06:53 PM
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I love it also! Fantastic pic. Adding a closeup of the buttcap might be nice.


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Old 04-26-2006, 07:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dodd
I haven't forged anything more complicated than a nail in a home-made ghetto forge. It was fun and all, but after I discovered that the vacuum could run backwards and the bucket of nuggets I threw in the fire was furnace coke and not coal, my steel melted, and I became a little discontented with myself.

sorry for all the questions.
I'm asking because I've been looking inot making a Seax for some time,
and just don't feel I know enough.
You are SO on the right track, Dodd.

Don't ever give up.


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Old 04-27-2006, 09:26 PM
mstu mstu is offline
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Hey Jesse, can I come up your way for a visit some time? That's an exceptional piece of work.

Michael
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  #11  
Old 04-27-2006, 11:14 PM
Drunkenduck Drunkenduck is offline
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Dodd, I have used brine at about 160 degrees F to quinch 1095. I have read where smiths have used brine to harden some of the higher carbon 10 steels but I haven't tried any. You might just have to forge a blade and plunge it in and see how it comes out.

Doug Lester
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  #12  
Old 04-28-2006, 07:22 AM
Jesse Frank Jesse Frank is offline
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Thanks Everybody!

Yeah, MSTU, feel free to come up anytime. The Wife and I are buying a place big enough to have hammerins, so I'll keep you all posted on that.

Dodd,

Here is a link to my site that explains the construction method better. The second pic down shows why the square stock is good, although I didn't use the W1 for that one. Honestly, I would recommend quenching any "water hardening" steel in oil. While one can do it in water, or even brine if you are careful, you are WAY more likely to ed up with it in several pieces.

http://jfmetalsmith.com/seaxcontsrct1.html


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Old 04-28-2006, 08:48 AM
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wow.
I apologize for 'hijacking' this thread.
That's a wealth of information.
Pehaps you're all right. Maybe I should just try a few.
1095 is CHEAP (relative to CPM-3V, anyway)

I saw the pictures, and the second one certainly looks square.
At first glance, it looks like the 'file' is in the middle with the rest on either side. (San-mai?). Then I guess you just squish the whole thing flat?
Sounds like a high-skill learning process.

Thank you all so very much.
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  #14  
Old 05-09-2006, 03:40 PM
Jesse Frank Jesse Frank is offline
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Here's the sheath. It's got a carved/embossed motif inspired by a design on a mid tenth century manuscript.



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