|
|
The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
||||
|
||||
Advice on mounting a 4x4x4 anvil
I'm thinking of doing a lively style anvil and have been looking into this piece of steel.
I think it will be a good starter for me until I can get a big boy and should be better than a cast iron anvil. My concern is getting it to mount decently with only being 4" deep it doesn't give me a lot to work with using a bucket, pipe and concrete. Any suggestions? Thanks |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
Weld a 5/8" nut on each side on the base, then either use some large spikes, or leg bolts to fasten it to your block of wood.
One way to go... |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
I'm agree with Bear Blade.Weld some nuts on the side of it and mount it to a heavy stump.
Stan |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
Yeah that is actually a great idea, I never would have thought of that. I have had the Tim Lively set up stuck in my head, I suppose it was a good thing that I asked.
With that thought in mind, I don't have access to a welder. Do you think I should get it professionally done from a shop here around town or would some JB weld or 2 ton epoxy suffice? I guess another question would be: Do you guys think the $85 (shipped) for a piece of HT'd 4140 is a good deal? If not can you point me in another direction. I'm sure I could find something cheaper if I were willing to head down to the scrap yards, but I could be looking around them for a long time to find something that would work. |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
No kind of epoxy is going to hold that for more than a couple of minutes and only then if you're very lucky. Get it welded.
At this point, I'd say save the $85 until you can put it towards an anvil. A small piece of 4140 will probably lose any heat treatment it has, at least in the surface area, after a few hours of having hot steel pressed into it. In other words, if you're going to use anything like a small piece of steel or railroad track, fine, but don't worry about heat treatment on it ..... |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
cut grooves on sides or all 4 corners, get pieces of angle iron to fit your grooves. drill holes in angle iron and wood base and attach large lag bolts with big washers.whatever you think is big enough double that. good luck,dave
|
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
__________________ The only easy day was yesterday. |
#8
|
||||
|
||||
A sample of solution..........
Quote:
Maybe you can have a look on this page on my web site : http://coustil.free.fr/atelier_tas_gb.html I had a similar problem... This kind of solution works well ! I hope this helps. |
#9
|
||||
|
||||
I found a 7.5" round by like 6" long from speedymetal for about $80-90 shipped. It was in their "fire sale" section. I think they are end cuts and they sell them at a discount. You gotta search through their offerings though. I seen a 7.25"x4" going for more than 7.5"
The steel from them is usually annealed. If you find a piece you are interested in. I suggest asking here again if it will work as I'm newb, my advice might not be the greatest...LOL Chris |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
|
#11
|
||||
|
||||
I agree, that set up is really nice.
Thanks for all the good suggestions. I just really got the bug from attending Tai's hammerjamin and I'm probably rushing things, but I am antsy. I haven't pulled the trigger yet on the hunk of steel and started inquiring around with some local companies. So far 1 has got back to me with a piece of a36 plate steel that is 4x4 and 12" long, which would work for the lively set up. I may have to head to the scrap yard this weekend. |
#12
|
||||
|
||||
Rob (?)
While a pretty piece of steel, it's way under weight for any serious smithing. The physics involved require resistive mass under the hammer blow to be effective. Yeah, you can forge a blade on it, but you won't like it long. That cube is a bench anvil at best, note it is recommended for "jewler's" first. If it were better suited for blade or black smithing that would have been "first line". That one will bounce all over the place if not secured and as mentioned above wear you out in short order. Do "due diligence" and really search for a suitable anvil like object or anvil. They are everywhere and not so hard to find if you use your head, your eyes, and make contacts. Put the word out and start looking. As Ray said, save that $85 to put toward a more serious chunk of metal. Go by some heavy equipment sales/repair/service facilities. there is usually a broken forklift tine lying around headed for scrap. Good mid/high range carbon steel and if mounted right, tremendous mass under the point of impact. Just have to lug it home mount it securely and "face" the top smooth and flat. __________________ Carl Rechsteiner, Bladesmith Georgia Custom Knifemakers Guild, Charter Member Knifemakers Guild, voting member Registered Master Artist - GA Council for the Arts C Rex Custom Knives Blade Show Table 6-H |
Tags |
blade, forge, knife |
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
mounting motor KMG | Txcwboy | Tool Time | 3 | 10-04-2007 11:21 PM |
Mounting New Anvil? | nc_cooter | The Outpost | 4 | 08-18-2006 09:07 PM |
Mounting your grinder | Tod | Tool Time | 10 | 09-05-2003 07:28 PM |
Mounting an anvil ? | Gouge | The Outpost | 23 | 01-15-2003 08:07 AM |
Help on gem mounting | Don Cowles | Fine Embellishment | 30 | 08-10-2002 11:24 AM |