Handles

Hello,

I seem to be popping up a lot here, but I just wanted to drop a note about stabalized woods. I keep seeing forum after forum about using stabilized woods. I keep thinking that they would be nice to work with(I mostly use Dymondwood) but they are really exspensive. Just recieved an order which included a pair of walnut burl scales. They polished up quick and look beautiful. When I think about the time and added cost of the sealents, polish, wax, exc, I think I will be using stabilized wood instead of unstabilized when needed. Thanks for the kick in the butt to give them a try.

Drac

They sure look great and the durability is real good too. Plus there is just something about the look of real wood grain.

Have Fun! Cause that's what its all about!

Bob Sigmon

Theres a real simple way to get cheap stabilized woods. I buy wood in large blocks. About a year ago I picked up a large chuck of some great spalted maple. I resawed it down into 2"X4"X12" blocks. I then sent these blocks out to K+G and had Ken stabilize it for me. The block cost me $20 and the stabilizing cost me about $70. I got around 100 sets of slabs out of the batch. Thats less the $1 per pair. I then turned around and sold 75% of them on Ebay at $20 per pair.

Note: the blocks can not be larger than 2X4X12. That is the largest piece that they can fit in the chamber.

Stabilized wood is great. Just like finishing out stag or water buffalo: shape, sand, buff! No sealants or finishes needed.

Be aware of when you do send wood to get it stabilized that the moisture content much be down around 10-11%.

Craig