Mounting an anvil ?

[Gouge]

I just got an old mousehole anvil and it has no holes on the base. What method would be best to mount this beauty to a stump?

Thanks

Mark

[Sweany]

wow, I caint wait to see the answers on this one.


nails, spikes ,bolts , or chains.

Actually something that holds the anvil secure and has some stretch or give in the mount, otherwise it will break.

My Vulcan, is not tied down, to the anvil it has two spikes made from 3/8" rod driven into the stump.

The rods sit tight up against the center curve of the anvil.

when I want to move the setup i just pick the anvil up, and roll the stump away.


My Yuba anvil sits in an angle ironfrom with a pine wedge to hold it there.

[Gouge]

I like the rods idea for being able to just pick it up and move it. I feel kinda turpid for not thinking of that myself.

Thanks Sweany

Mark

[EMU]

I just finished a 5"x5"x10" blind mortice (hole) in an oak log. I put a 5"x5"x22" piece of steel in it for my anvil. It was a LOT of work but it looks neat and it won't fall off.
You might cut a 2" deep hole the shape of the base of the anvil and just set it in the hole. Should work.?
Steve

[DiamondG Knives]

Mounting an anvil?
Always, always remember safe sex!!

I have mine mounted similar to that, I used several large spike nails, but I drove them in at an angle twords the underside of the anvil, then bent them over the base, so I cant take mine off

Been thinking about a chain with a "boomer" like they use to tie down big equipment


Mike

[Raymond Richard]

Take a chain and run it around the waist of the anvil. Make the chain long enough to just go around it but with just alittle slack. Take the one end link and run it threw the other end link. Get two long lag bolts with washers and run them in threw the the chain on the one side and do the same where the one link goes threw the other and tighten them both up. Seems to work good on my anvils.....

[Gene Chapman]

Just so happens have a Mouse hole anvil in the shop used when extra folks are around hammering and to take to conferences where my main anvil won't get cruddy in midnight madness.

It's about 110#, texture on top but has a great rebound. AUse large spikes to hold it on a maple stump. Hammer them sideways to lift the navil off when moving. If it was permanent I would forge larger spikes to hold it down. A bigger stump would be better but it is portable.

Spikes, bolts, chain, cable anything that keeps it from falling on your feet.

[Gouge]

Safe sex
I knew somebody would do it

Is a maple stump what i should get?

Mark

[Raymond Richard]

You know there is another way to go about this. Set the anvil on the ground and dig hole next to it. Dig the hole to the depth you want and then stand in it. How's that for portability, Gene?

[prizzim]

Mine is mounted on an Oak stump, with a hole, the shape of the anvil base, cut into it about 1 or 2 inches deep and a little tight. When I went to mount it, it wouldn't fit without some whacking with a 4# sledge. Now I have a very tight fit, no ringing (75# Vulcan) and no chains or spikes or other crap in the way. I can rest tools on the stump around the anvil easily (makes a good work table for tongs and such).

I suppose I did it the hard way, with hammer and wood chisel, but I suppose if you had a straight bit for a router, that would work pretty well too.

If you live anywhere near Washington D.C., I have a couple extra oak stumps if you want one.

Good luck.

[Gouge]

Thanks for the offer Chris. I live a little South of you in Hampton Va. I've got access to any kind of stump, I just wondered what wood was best.

Mark

[Sweany]

oak, elm, pine or ash work fine for an anvil stump.

in West Texas they nail 2X's together to make one (no trees)

I have an oak and a osage orange stump. the osage weighs about 200 lbs by itself.

Another idea is to cut a couple 2x"s to fit the curve between the feet and lag screw those to the stump.

Speaking of stumps make sure the thing is square. If the stump is not square it kinda moves around and you loose some of the power of your blows.

To square stump. make a 2x box to fit the stump level and nail it to the stump, set the box so you can run a skil saw over the box and contact the stump. make multi passes to remove the unwanted material from the stump.

The bottom of the stump (if it sets on concrete) should be slightly hollowed in the center. That way when the weather changes it won't get unlevel again. doesn't take a lot, I did mine with a side grinder.

[prizzim]

Wow! So far, I think you're the closest CKD'er to me. I've been down to Williamsburg a couple times, about a 3-hour drive for me. Next time I'm down that way, we should hook up.

[Gouge]

Sounds good Chris. i'll be at the Richmond knife show saturday. give me a call anytime you're in the area.

Mark

757-723-3239

[Dana Acker]

Hey Mark/Gouge, sorry this is late, but WELCOME to the Outpost forum. Glad to have you join us. Don't be a stranger.

I've seen people take metal strapping (like a metal band that comes in a roll, with a row of holes down the center) and pull it tight over base of the anvil, then nail it to the sides of the stump. Seemed to work well. Gene's spike idea is my favorite, though.