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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #1  
Old 05-20-2003, 08:58 AM
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Cheap newbie grinder

I had this idea before, but with a third roller instead. Looks to be easy made useing any kind of curved surface. Does this give anyone any ideas?



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Last edited by hammerdownnow; 05-20-2003 at 04:12 PM.
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  #2  
Old 05-20-2003, 12:49 PM
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OK, I admit I may be imagination deprived and I know you're all gonna call me a wet blanket on this one. And, I admit that not every new knife maker can stretch his budget to $300 for the Grizzly grinder which would offer a platen, a contact wheel, and slack belt grinding.

But, the only idea I'm getting from looking at that silly thing is that the guys who invented it have too much time on their hands!

Maybe I'm just too used to having the right tool for the job but it looks to me like they are solving a problem no knife maker should have in the first place. If you learn to do something the wrong way isn't it more difficult to re-learn to do it the right way later?

Anyway, I'm probably am missing your whole point, can't see the forest for the trees.....
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Old 05-20-2003, 02:08 PM
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Ray,

It gave me an idea, and no, it's not buying one of those . I'm moving from KCMO to Dallas by the end of July and have held off buying a 2 X 72 grinder not knowing if I'll have enough room for it. I work in a basement of a townhouse right now on a Craftsmen 4 X 36. The main problems are the sides are rounded not square and it won't track to the edge on one side.

I figure if they can run belts over THAT thing I can put a platen on mine to help without harming the belts.

Once I know I'll have room, the wish list in order are:

2 X 72 KMG w/platen
metal cutting bandsaw
mini-mill
small wheel adapter

I'll keep the 4 X 36 for handles and/or sheaths as the belts are cheaper for it and work well enough on these materials and save my 2 X 72 for metals.

Jim


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Old 05-20-2003, 03:31 PM
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Jim,

You made some good points there. I couldn't see trying to have that as a main grinder for a Newbie but they are definitely useful in the shop. I have one too.

As for not having enough room for a 2x72 in your new place, I'll keep my fingers crossed for you. Don't give up the dream too easily though. My first shop was an 8x8 section in the front end of a Class A motorhome. In that tiny area, I had my Grizzly 2x72, a 12 speed drill press, metal cutting bandsaw, a scroll saw, a CNC mini mill, a tv/vcr/cable box, all the usual hand tools, and a Shop Vac which I REALLY needed.

You can do it if you want it bad enough....
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Old 05-20-2003, 04:09 PM
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Hammer,

I forgot to say first thanks for always keeping an eye out for things that could help and bringing them here. Looking at that adapter seriously to see what I thought of it and one thing did come to mind, either with their design or using a roller like you suggest. Would you be able to get enough flex to be of use without putting to much pressure on the belt?

Not only would heavy pressure make the work hotter quicker but it's a lot more dangerous. It might not be a bad idea for things like sheaths and handles, but if it required heavy pressure to get the flex, I'm not sure. You might want to seriously bring this up in the tool time area to see what they think.

Thanks for doing the research,
Jim


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Old 05-20-2003, 05:46 PM
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I really don't see how they can use the same size belts. There is not that much adjustment on those things. Seems like if you did get it on there, it would be tighter than Dicks hat band. Ya never know till ya try.
I used to think the only way to grind steel was on a hard wheel.
I used to think i needed a 2x72 and a contact wheel.
I used to think i needed a mini mill to slot my guards.
I used to think i needed to hollow grind.
Now I know, all i need is my charcoal forge, a hammer and a file.

Each to his own.

Ed Caffery showed us you can convex grind on thats little space between the contact wheel and the platen. (I guess you don't need much belt deflection.)

Don Crockette showed us a platen doesn't have to be flat and made one that would grind like a 22" contact wheel.(I guess "flat" and "platten" are not one in the same.)

I saw some grinds done by Ferret on a 3 x 36 that just blew my mind.( I guess, where there is a will, there is a way)

Jerry Hossom showed us with the Jonsey tutorial, in some circles a 3x36 could be conciderd high tech.)

I posted this here for us newbies, who, while testing the waters, might be able to get a better taste without the bitter taste.

I am going to try slipping a piece of 1" cold roll under the belt and see what that does.




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Old 05-20-2003, 07:01 PM
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Hammer,

Sorry, I wasn't trying to offend you. I'm really still learning.

Jim


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Old 05-20-2003, 07:17 PM
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I'm all about fun and learning. It is hard to type and not come across harsh sometimes. I should add a disclaimer tag line...lol. Please believe me when i say i love this place and the people. I appreciate everything i have learned here and am honored to be able to join in.
I would love to have a high end variable speed. I have the cash, just can't make a decision. Somehow, I am attracted to junk and homemade stuff. One day i want a full blown mach. shop, the next i wanna be unplugged. Every little tip and trick i learn gets me all reved up. I would love to watch Ray make a big chef knife up at his place,but he says i can't ding up his new anvil


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Old 05-20-2003, 08:35 PM
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I would like some of the new "big boy toys" as my wife calls them, but some of things are best home made. Gene's hollow grinding jig as an example.

Jim


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Old 05-21-2003, 08:08 AM
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Hammer,

I said I didn't want you to ding the anvil, I didn't say you couldn't use it. Try to hit the hot steel. I'd love for you to come up here and whack on that anvil so maybe I could learn something about using it. So far, it isn't much more than a giant paper weight for me. An occasional railroad spike knife is all I do with it ....
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Old 05-21-2003, 03:01 PM
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Thanks Ray, I gotta sharpin my eye up first. I would hate to ding it. From the pics, she looks like a beauty!

I slipped a piece if 1-1/4 01 rod under the belt of a small delta 4x36 at the shop. Slid a C-clamp in behind that to secure it. The spring tention on the sander is not that strong so it compressed and everything ran smooth. It made a nice little slack belt area along with a spot for doing a 1-1/4 radius.


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Old 05-21-2003, 03:11 PM
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Ya, I don't expect to ever own another $3000 anvil so I try to take good care of this one. Hopefully, it will last long enough for me to learn to use it correctly.

So that bar on the platen of a 4x36 worked pretty goo, huh? Well, live and learn. I'll put that in my bag of tricks but I still wouldn't want to tell a Newbie to try and make a knife that way ....
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Old 05-22-2003, 03:37 AM
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Hey Ray! Would you recomend this way to a newbie? Gimme that 4x36! lol.
Altho I must admit I've filed my last two after forging close. There is something real soothing about fileing. 'specially when you get the steel real soft.

http://hossom.com/tutorial/jonesy/CHEAPS%7e1.PDF


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Old 05-28-2003, 07:36 AM
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Here is a pic of what i did to lift the belt. I compressed the spring on the belt a little and slid the round stock under it. I then put one of those flat bar wood clamps behind it to keep it from moving. The light spring on this little Delta gives little resistance to pressure on the belt.

After thinking it over, Ray is right. This little cobble job can no way take the place of the real thing. It can teach bad habits because i started grinding with the belt running backwards and still haven't corrected myself.

After experementing a little, Drac is right. I think it could work as a dedicated grinder for doing handles and sheaths. The round stock can be changed to different sizes for small wheel chores like choils and finger grooves.
Thanks guys for your input and making me think a little.


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Old 05-28-2003, 11:11 AM
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Okay
I spent my first three years working on a 4 X 36 craftsman so I have some experience with them. If that is all you can get to work on it it shouldn't stop anybody. What I did was to flip the belt so it ran vertically. Then I uses a dremel, believe it or not, to cut both sides of the belt table until I ended up with a 4 inch paten left over. used a work rest below this paten section and away I went. I could adjust the belt to either side in order to get a slight overhang. Hope that made sense to somebody. I will try and get a pic of my old sander and post it here.
Steve


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