The Right Sandpaper

[GANNMADE]

Here of late i've been using light colored woods such as maple ,elder. The problem is all the sandpaper is making the wood dirty looking :confused: what sandpaper are some of you using?

[Shakudo]

i've tried all of the various "high tech" papers and grit sizes.finally went back to the woodworkers standard of garnet sandpaper for maple ,box elder and cherry.

[GANNMADE]

whew thanks I have alot of maple burl and box elder and was getting a little concern .It's been awhile since I fool with light colored woods.

[Alan L]

After sanding out to your final grit, try polishing for a second with #0000 steel wool. Works for me to get the muddy out of the wood pores.

[dart]

I had some steel wool stay in the wood and rust. I don't use it anymore for that reason. I was using danish oil finish. Just my experience tho.

[Jason Cutter]

The problem can arise if you use the same sandpaper to finish different materials - contamination from adjacent materials like Micarta, leather, steel (the worst). I do all my rough finishing up to 600 or 800 grit without bothering too much about any of these poblems, then as I get to 1200 and 1500-2000 grit, I tape off the various materials and finish them separately. I also sand dry, and frequently blow or brush away any debris with an old paint brush with the bristles cut short.

The problem can persist if you use very open-grained timbers, which pick up EVERYTHING. I just don't use anything too open grained ! Some people seal the surface as they go by loading the surface with superglue. I don't do this much at all - I still find it a hassle. But it works quite well on most woods. Jason.

[GHEzell]

They make synthetic steel wool, the stuff I've got I picked up at walmart. It's available in several different grades, the finest (0000) is some amazing stuff. Doesn't rust, and lasts a long time.

[Dave Larsen]

I've had this problem too, particularly with open-grained woods. My solution was as Jason mentioned: at 400 grit I seal with superglue and work it on from there. Use enough to fill the pores; I've had to go back to 220 to remove "drips" and move on from there. Sand back to the surface of the wood. I've found I can wet sand this surface, which helps keep it clean (kind of counterintuitive I know, but it works for me. ). The stuff polishes beautifully too.

Changing the paper frequently does make a difference. I have more trouble at the pin and bolster areas, dragging steel into the wood. The superglue (mostly, depending on the grit) prevents the steel becomming embedded in the wood.

Nothing else I've tried has worked as well but it's still not perfect. Just my 2c.

[cactusforge]

I have been using Scotch Bright pads with good results. Gib

[TexasJack]

I usually use Watco Danish wood oil, and I do my final sanding with the wood oil on the wood. You get a great finish that way and you can wipe off the fine grit and sawdust easily, following up with another coating of wood oil. Try that using a piece of your light wood and non-dyed wood oil ("neutral").

About the only place around here that still carries Watco is Houston Hardwoods.

[Jeff Higgins]

This is a problem for a lot of woodworkers - not just knifemakers. I've heard of folks using linseed oil to sand with, supposedly it helps keep the grains open and cuts the dust. I don't do too many wood handles, but when I do they are usually a really dense hard wood - or dark wood.

[DiamondG Knives]

Somthing Ive found that works good for me is to coat the wood with a loght coat of wood hardener before I start my finish sanding, it kind of seals the pores so they wont fill with the "gunk" found this especily handy when working with bone or antler when you dont want that "salt & pepper" look. Dont know if this would inhibet staining, but I would think that it would to some degree. I havnt tried it yet but Ive heard good things about the scotch brite type sanding pads!

God Bless
Mike

[SteveS]

Sounds like I'm in the same boat with other folks.

FWIW:
After shaping I soak overnight in linseed oil (ala Bill Moran). Wipe it all off and rub hard, then use garnet paper and constantly changing the paper.

If there are metal bolsers I use 3m microfinish papers changing frequently and avoid the wood.

Then buff the whole thing.

Steve

[Lloyd Hale]

Good thread Guys.... When I was making Mr. Frazier His knife collection I had the good fortune of being exposed to the Man that headed up Mr. Frazier's Furniture Manufacturing Company... They make World Class Tables and Chairs... This Man was an old German Master of exotic wood Furniture... Anyway, He told me to never go beyond 220 grit on any wood then seal the pores by rubbing in any good sealer with several coats... letting it dry over night... I use Berchwood Casy's True oil.... He said to rub in a coat hard and let it set for 15 minutes then rub it off.... let stand a couple hours and repeat this several times.... this really gets that sealer down in those pores.... after all that I would let it stand for 8 hours then hand rub with 0000 steel wool (4 ot ) His words to me were-- NEVER-NEVER-NEVER use 500 or 600 grit paper on wood..... it's all about what works for each of us in our own shop.... and trying new ideas keeps it fresh.......