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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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Blade test
Blade test of my second blade I made and first that was done with clay coating to produce a hamon. Edge broke to the hamon line then bent on back bone of blade. tip broke off were hamon stopped. posted some pics of grain structure were tip broke. The steel is 1080 from admiral 1 1/2 x 3/16 and was quenched in 130 degree brine solution. Heated to criticial by magnet check and color at night. tempered at 375 for 1 hour on first temper and 400 for 1 hour on second temper. blade bent 30degrees before hamon snapped and was bent 120 degrees total in vise. So how did I do or what can be done to improve.
Last edited by Luke V; 04-05-2015 at 06:24 PM. |
#2
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One improvement would be to use oil instead of water. The hamon will still show but you are much less likely to have the blade break in the quench (yours didn't but just saying). Use canola oil.
Sounds like maybe your clay was too thick which can make the clayed section much softer than the edge section. That's great for a hamon but bad for durability. Clay should be no thicker than the blade steel. You used the magnet, that's fine, that's what you should do. But, did you use it correctly - much easier to do it wrong that right. Your grain looks very coarse and that's not good. The trick with the magnet is to catch the non-mag point on the way up, then quench at or slightly beyond that point. You can't heat past that and then wait for it to cool back to that point or you get what you got. You can't get non-mag and then put the blade back in the heat to go 'slightly' beyond and let it go more than about 100 degrees beyond or you get what you got. Other than that, your process sounds pretty good ... |
#3
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One thing I did wrong or it depends on who you ask is I let it soak for about 5 min after it was at criticial. Was going to try a water / oil quench next time as I am shooting for some good ashi in the hamon. Also I only normalized the steal once and I started another blade tonight and normalized it twice.
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#4
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Agree with Ray looks very coarse which equals too hot before quench.
One trick that might work for you is you can dial down your forge heat, watch the color of the steel as it approaches nonmagnetic on the rise. get a fix on the color just past the non mag point. That is the color your entire blade needs to be at quench. NOT Brighter - just a shade past non-mag. Takes paying close attention, but worth the effort. May require some movement of the blade or placing some shielding rubble in the forge to get things even. In a well regulated forge you can set the interior of the forge to that color and it's duck soup from there. I imagine the "soak" you mentioned is what accentuated the grain growth. 1080 and 1084 are pretty forgiving with this and do allow you a bit of room for error, but there are limits even with them. __________________ Carl Rechsteiner, Bladesmith Georgia Custom Knifemakers Guild, Charter Member Knifemakers Guild, voting member Registered Master Artist - GA Council for the Arts C Rex Custom Knives Blade Show Table 6-H |
Tags |
1084, back, blade, bone, degrees, edge, forge, hamon, heat, hot, knife, made, make, quenched, show, steel, vise |
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