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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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Which wrench?
I'm not sure where to post this, so I'll ask Ray.
I recently enjoyed pounding a knife out of an old JCPenny's combo wrench. The blade heat-treated like most oil-hardening tool-steels I've used. While I'm not known for forging knives, I find myself doing more and more of it as I continue to expand my skill set, so I think I'd like to do a few more wrench knives. The question: What brand of of modern wrenches which can be purchased at a local hardware store offers good tool steel in the oil-hardening family? Thanks! __________________ Andy Garrett https://www.facebook.com/GarrettKnives?ref=hl Charter Member - Kansas Custom Knifemaker's Association www.kansasknives.org "Drawing your knife from its sheath and using it in the presence of others should be an event complete with oos, ahhs, and questions." |
#2
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Good afternoon Andy.
It would be my humble opinion that you don’t guess about your steel. Buying wrench’s in the long run isn’t cheaper and you’d be guessing with every brand about your heat treat. If you’ve been bitten by the forgoing bug, buy yourself a stash of known steen like 1075 that with give you reliable results every time Erik __________________ Erik Land Dorena, Oregon |
#3
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Couldn't agree more, but for this project, the point is to make knives that are still a wrench on one end.
__________________ Andy Garrett https://www.facebook.com/GarrettKnives?ref=hl Charter Member - Kansas Custom Knifemaker's Association www.kansasknives.org "Drawing your knife from its sheath and using it in the presence of others should be an event complete with oos, ahhs, and questions." |
#4
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Not much I can add to that. Most modern wrenches are very stainless, either because they have a lot of chrome in them or because they are made from something that has no iron in it. For that reason alone, I'd look for older wrenches that had a patina of rust on them. I have some small ones like that, must be 100 years old and I still use them. Not too hard to find them in pawn shops ....
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#5
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Thanks Ray. I was leaning to just finding somengood vintage wrenches because I was worried about just what you mentioned.
__________________ Andy Garrett https://www.facebook.com/GarrettKnives?ref=hl Charter Member - Kansas Custom Knifemaker's Association www.kansasknives.org "Drawing your knife from its sheath and using it in the presence of others should be an event complete with oos, ahhs, and questions." |
#6
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Lot are chrome plated as well. Burning off chrome can be bad for your health. Always do your burn-offs out side with plenty of air flow (away from you and others).
That being said several old-school brands were pretty decent steels - Plumb, Craftsman (oval logo), S-K, Cresent. As Ray mentioned the older USA ones (without the chrome coating) are usually pretty good, only if they have a logo stamped on them they are usually worth way more as antiques especially those with Automobile logos like Ford. As with any mystery steel, you need to test to find the best thermal cycling recipe for the steel. __________________ Carl Rechsteiner, Bladesmith Georgia Custom Knifemakers Guild, Charter Member Knifemakers Guild, voting member Registered Master Artist - GA Council for the Arts C Rex Custom Knives Blade Show Table 6-H |
#7
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Forge weld the end of a wrench onto O1 tool steel?
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#8
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Thanks. I found a few with a convincing patina at the antique shops downtown (got a few good ones here).
Let the testing begin. __________________ Andy Garrett https://www.facebook.com/GarrettKnives?ref=hl Charter Member - Kansas Custom Knifemaker's Association www.kansasknives.org "Drawing your knife from its sheath and using it in the presence of others should be an event complete with oos, ahhs, and questions." |
Tags |
1075, bee, blade, brand, ca, forging, hardware, heat, heat treat, iron, knife, knives, made, make, post, project, question, small, stainless, steel, store, tool, tool steel, vintage, wrench |
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