The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
04-08-2015, 02:58 PM
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Steel Addict
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Roswell, Georgia
Posts: 133
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Newest work finished a few minutes ago
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04-08-2015, 03:48 PM
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Founding Member / Moderator
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Wauconda, WA
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Your grind lines are definitely looking better. The edge still appears thick in the picture but that might just be the lighting.
The finish work on the scales is improved but your pins need cleaning up.
As always, the real test is whether or not it works as intended. Use it, abuse it, and let's see what we see ...
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04-08-2015, 04:31 PM
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Skilled
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Alabama
Posts: 554
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I'll agree with Ray, it's getting better. You know what would really change the way that knife looks. Start at just before the halfway mark on the blade (from the tip) and remover the curve making it a drop point. Do that and it will make the knife pop.
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04-08-2015, 07:02 PM
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Skilled
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Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Indiana
Posts: 359
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I really like the wood you chose. Beautiful.
Keep on grinding, it only gets better ... so I'm told by Ray
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04-08-2015, 08:11 PM
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Steel Addict
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Join Date: Aug 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmccustomknives
I'll agree with Ray, it's getting better. You know what would really change the way that knife looks. Start at just before the halfway mark on the blade (from the tip) and remover the curve making it a drop point. Do that and it will make the knife pop.
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I LIKE that idea, but I kinda don't wanna do it to this one because I've always had a soft spot for this blade shape and never really had any knives with this shape. However that DOES simplify the process for my next one! I think I will try that next time.
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04-08-2015, 08:18 PM
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Steel Addict
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Roswell, Georgia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray Rogers
Your grind lines are definitely looking better. The edge still appears thick in the picture but that might just be the lighting.
The finish work on the scales is improved but your pins need cleaning up.
As always, the real test is whether or not it works as intended. Use it, abuse it, and let's see what we see ...
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I don't THINK it's too thick right there, but I'm willing to accept it if I'm wrong. The blade is a bit less than 3/8 thick, and from the bevel it was brought straight down to about half the thickness of a dime before the final edge was put on. I took it to the Work Sharp to get it sharpened and went through all of the belts so the edge has a mirror finish in contrast to the 80 grit tool marks on the rest of the blade.
I DID try to get the pins as clean as possible and I've gotten them WAY cleaner on other knives, the Honduran Rosewood just DID NOT want to sand without scorching and manual sanding alone didn't help enough. I use a drum sander with a weird foam roller at 220 grit to get the pins clean enough to finish with super fine sandpaper, but the Rosewood didn't cooperate. Learning experience, wood THIS dense and full of resin requires some serious patience.
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04-09-2015, 08:43 AM
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Founding Member / Moderator
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Join Date: Jun 2002
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I think you probably meant 3/16" thick. The edge sounds thin enough the way you describe it. The problem with burning the wood with belts is the reason why variable speed grinders are popular....
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04-09-2015, 09:01 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray Rogers
I think you probably meant 3/16" thick. The edge sounds thin enough the way you describe it. The problem with burning the wood with belts is the reason why variable speed grinders are popular....
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You could be right about the thickness. I know it's every bit as thick as leaf spring. Never bothered measuring.
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04-09-2015, 09:17 AM
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Founding Member / Moderator
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Well, if it really is as thick as a leaf spring then you were probably correct in the first place. That would be awfully thick for a blade of that size and configuration though. A fair chopper, I suppose, but not very good cutting geometry. Doesn't really look that thick in the pictures but with nothing to compare it to you can't really tell ....
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04-09-2015, 12:09 PM
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Hall of Famer
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Decatur, IL
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The Rosewood group of woods make great handles and they all share the characteristic of being dense and oily which means they work fine without being stabilized. As a matter of fact, they really can't be stabilized. Send it to one of the commercial stabilizers and they'll send it right back to you.
I've pretty much given up on using a sander for shaping and finishing handles. I have a Japanese wood rasp for hogging the handle to shape and then it's on to files and hand sanding. Sanders, unless you can really crank them back, are going to burn wood. Especially the end grain.
Doug
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anvil, art, bevel, blade, chopper, cleaning, edge, files, grind, grinder, grinding, knife, knives, made, make, making, newest, pins, problem, rosewood, scales, shop, steel, wood, woods |
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