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Tool Time Let's talk shop. Equipment, Tips & Tricks, Safety issues - Post it here. |
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#1
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rant - I hate my new 4x6 metal bandsaw
I've had a HF 4x6" metal (green) bandsaw for nearly 7 years now. It is probably one of my favorite tools and has been utterly reliable. I use it exclusively in the upright position for cutting blade profiles. I bought a new 4x6 for the garage and tried to use in the horizontal mode to cut pipe, bar stock, etc. This one (red) absolutely sucks. I have broken 2 blades in 24 hours. I can't recall breaking 2 blades on the other one. I have adjusted every thing that can be adjusted on this new one. The tracking is terrible and routinely pops off the blade. Even the bolts are so soft they strip easily. For the last few years I have seen postings by newbies about their 4x6" not cutting right or tracking or other issues. I understand what they are going through now. I used to tell noobs all the time to get the cheap 4x6", I won't be any more.
I think I'm going with this one from Grizzly. |
#2
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Tracy,
I have a Grizzly 4x6 and never had a bit of trouble out of it. I use it the same way you use your original HF saw. I also have a 7x12 that is identical to the Grizzly saw but with MSC's name on it. Most of my shop is Grizzly but when it came time to buy this saw MSC happened to have a very agressive sale going on. Anyway, I absolutely LOVEthis saw! I've been using it to cut 1/2" plate in 8" cuts. Set it up and let it go, perfect straight cuts every time. I did try putting the table on the 7x12 and using it upright to cut an accordian fold into a billet and wasn't nearly so pleased with how that worked. I can't stand directly in front of the blade so putting much pressure on the billet is very difficult and the cutting seemed really slow. Maybe with practice it will get better but I'm not too sure about that. But, for automatic cutting of pipe and plate you're gonna love this saw ... |
#3
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Good to know Ray. Thanks. I better check Enco and MSC I guess.
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#4
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I've had really good service from both Grizzly and MSC. Contrary to what we hear said so often, these tools are not all the same - they're just built to the same plans and, often, in the same factories. They're not always built with the same materials and to the same tolerances. Grizzly in particular sees to it that the larger machines built for them are build to higher standards.
MSC was great on the saw. They gave me a free gallon of cutting fluid and TWO Lennox blades of my own choosing and got the saw to my door for under $700 almost exactly one year ago. Enco had a good deal too but not that good and I'm not as confident in their equipment. I've always happily paid a bit more for Grizzly tools but, this time, the price difference was too much to ignore when I was sure the quality would be there anyway ... |
#5
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I bought a red HF saw about 4mos. ago and after initial adjustments of wheel tracking and the guides , I couldn't be happier. It cuts well in both the vertical and horizontal positions. I did replace the soft bolts during the adjustment.
__________________ Mike Broach Knives made to be used. |
#6
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I have had the "green" HF saw for about 2 1/2 years and HATE the thing. I have almost given it away twice, but I keep coming back to reality when I price a "GOOD" saw 800-1000.
I hate the thing, but I just can't justify the cost of a good one. I just wish someone would build one in the 3-5 hundred range, that was the same size. |
#7
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Tracy, I have one like the ones here also. Only difference is (I think) is that I don't recall it having the feature that allows it to bet set vertical, so be sure yours does since you like to sit on them.
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#8
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I've had one of the HF old green saws for many years and have never had a problem with it. I did make a larger table for it and immediately changed over to bimetal blades.
__________________ Tom Militano |
#9
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I have a JET 4x6 that is working great. Anytime I replace a blade I use a A/O stone and set it up against the side of the blade. This deburrs it so it has less potential to grab which is what will snap them. I also keep the arm tension as tight as possible so it does not cut as aggresively. When I cut copper, titanium, aluminum or stainless I actually hold the arm to lessen the downward pressure. Those metals seem to grab more then mild or carbon steel. I never just drop the arm down and let the full weight of it cut.
The weld joint on the blade really needs to be deburred since that is almost always where it snaps. |
Tags |
blade, knife, switchblade |
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