The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
02-03-2012, 05:01 AM
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Moderator
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Acworth, GA and/or Hanging Dog, NC
Posts: 3,583
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I recommend doing a little "search" on Ohio knifemakers as well as surrounding states. There were at least 3 makers from Ohio at the Knifemakers' Guild Show in Louisville, Ky last year. If I can find my packet from that show, I'll send you some possibles. Like I said, there are knifemakers everywhere, we just don't often hang shingles, because we are working two other jobs to support our habit. You're going to have to do a bit of "footwork" to find them.....web searches, asking around at hardware stores, barbershops, machineshops, firestations (don't laugh, a lot of fireman knifemakers), sporting clubs (hunting & fishing), etc.
Ray is right as far as heattreating, just practice until you get it right. Don't let that stop you, you are going to run into much harder techniques and practices as you get deeper into knifemaking.
Ray, if you have ever done any forgewelding or other WI work, you'd know that a "regular" blacksmith works at higher temps than the average bladesmith. Farriers maybe not, but "big metal" smiths go higher most of the time. Most of the heats used working WI will turn high carbon blade steel into sparklers.
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Carl Rechsteiner, Bladesmith
Georgia Custom Knifemakers Guild, Charter Member
Knifemakers Guild, voting member
Registered Master Artist - GA Council for the Arts
C Rex Custom Knives
Blade Show Table 6-H
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02-03-2012, 09:17 AM
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Founding Member / Moderator
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Wauconda, WA
Posts: 9,840
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Actually, I have done forge welding when I make damascus but readily admit I don't know much about the day to day life of the modern blacksmith even though I know at least one who is also a knife maker. My forge runs at 2300 when I weld although it doesn't really need to - it's just tricky to keep it much lower. Anyway, temperature range aside, as you well know working wrought iron and doing the HT for a knife blade are two completely different skill sets and that was the important part of what I was trying to say. If he doesn't make knives he might be able to help Cedar build a better forge and/or improve his hammer technique but that's about it...
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02-03-2012, 06:16 PM
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Enthusiast
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Norwalk, Ohio
Posts: 45
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Experimented with a file in the forge today. I heated it up past magnetic and let it cool down. I ground a blade into it and wanted to see if I could heat treat it. I put a cap on the pipe in the forge and it gets hot enough to get the file non magnetic but it's hard to tell the color because the pipe is glowing bright orange. The pipe is reflecting on the blade and it looks red but it's comming from the color of the pipe. I just keep pulling it out and checking with a magnet. When it got non magnetic I put it back in to try to get it back up to the same temp ( about 10 sec or so ) then in the oil it went. So far so good. A file slides off the edge, so I think it might be right. I put it in the oven at 400 degrees. I will find out before long what I ended up with.
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02-03-2012, 06:57 PM
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Founding Member / Moderator
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Wauconda, WA
Posts: 9,840
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Sounds about right. Remember to temper for at least one hour at whatever temperature you want to try, let the blade cool in open air to room temperature, and then temper again at the same temp or higher for another hour. Most all steels respond best to two temper cycles, some like 3 cycles but more than 3 is usually a waste of time ....
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Tags
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art, blade, camp knife, camp knives, damascus, forge, forging, grinding, hammer, handle, heat treat, hunting, knife, knife making, knifemaking, knives, post, sharpening, skinning, tang |
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