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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #16  
Old 07-26-2011, 10:23 PM
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TexasJack TexasJack is offline
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I built a one-brick forge, using a second brick to keep it off the ground. You might be surprised how hot you can get it with just propane.


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  #17  
Old 07-26-2011, 10:39 PM
Doug Lester Doug Lester is offline
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Off hand I would say yes to the amount of Satanite and ITC-100 being enough to make two 2 brick forges. The cavities that can be made aren't large and it doesn't take much to stick insulating brick together. By the way, I cut the cavities in mine with a half round wood rasp. I did the hole for the torch tip with a wood boring spade bit, hand held. Do yourself a favor and cut the brick for the forge outside because it makes a lot of dust when you hog out the brick to make the chamber.

Doug


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  #18  
Old 07-26-2011, 10:59 PM
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Eli Jensen Eli Jensen is offline
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Probably a really good idea. I've heard that a spoon works really well too. I'll give that a go and find something round maybe to the the final carving. I'll probably have plenty more Q's when the order comes in.

Just want to say thanks a lot guys I really appreciate you help. I surely would not have figured all this out without the help of my more knowledgeable peers.

I just hope you guys don't think I'm too much of a n00b. Speaking of which, check out the showcase and check out my latest n00b skills.
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  #19  
Old 07-27-2011, 12:59 AM
gsimmo gsimmo is offline
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The spoon trick was on the British knifemakers forum, He also did one with a melon baller. As for Noobishness, at least you have gotten to the point where you need the forge, I'm still working on building equipment on a tight budget... But I should be posting some work in the near future. And as I'm sure the people on here will tell you, everyone started out from the same number of knives built: 0. Someday, you will be the voice of wisdom to some young knifemaker.

-Geoff
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  #20  
Old 07-27-2011, 07:23 AM
RandyScott RandyScott is offline
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Cpt-Jens,

CRex has asked me to assist you. I used a 2 bricker for 4 years for forging and HT. Great little forge to get you started. Listen, I am under time constraints today, we have house guests coming in today and I have a list of honey do's that I have been tasked.. so... If you will check my profile and send me your email address, I will send you a document I created for another knifemaker on making a two bricker. Can't send attachments via the email function of KnifeNetworks.

Oh, I see that you have sourced the Insulating Soft Fire Brick - get about 8. You will break one or two, 3 or 4 will become a insulating barrier between the forge and the patio/porch furniture, 1 becomes the rear enclosure. Get a 5 pound bag of Satanite. Keep it dry and it will last for years. Still using from my original purchase in 2006. 1/4 pint of ITC-100 should be sufficient for you and your friend. ITC-100 should be applied thin.. did I mention thin?

There are other tips/techniques covered in my document.

Randy
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  #21  
Old 07-27-2011, 10:27 AM
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Eli Jensen Eli Jensen is offline
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Are the soft fire bricks any different than those used to build kilns? I might try asking the ceramics dept. at my school then.
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  #22  
Old 07-27-2011, 11:01 AM
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ARCustomKnives ARCustomKnives is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt-Jens View Post
Are the soft fire bricks any different than those used to build kilns? I might try asking the ceramics dept. at my school then.
They should be the same. I believe you want something like a Grade 23 (2300F) fire brick though. I may be mistaken, but if you go much higher, I believe it gets increasingly harder to hold the heat in.

As for the shaping, if you don't have a rounded rasp/file, a piece of threaded bolt works just as well.


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  #23  
Old 07-27-2011, 01:42 PM
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Is it possible to use a different type of brick as a base or a sort of sand set up? I want to do it right but shipping for these is crazy and I'm on a tight budget. Thanks guys.
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  #24  
Old 07-27-2011, 02:46 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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With the shipping weight seeming to be a problem, maybe you should consider a coffee can forge instead. Any metal form about the size of a coffee can or a piece of stove pipe, lined with a layer of kao-wool, painted with Satanite (and ITC-100 if you wish) and you have a basic forge body. The front and back can be built with a piece of wool or a firebrick, then insert whatever it is you want to use as a burner. It's good to have a piece of brick in the bottom to lay your blade on but this forge can be built with only one brick (or no bricks if you don't mind replacing the wool from time to time). Wool is cheap and light weight and generally sold in 2 square foot pieces which would make at least two of these forges depending on the size of your can. This is how I built my first forge although I made it much larger and used a forced air burner in it. Anyway, it's a way to avoid bricks altogether if you want to ....


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  #25  
Old 07-27-2011, 03:22 PM
RICK LOWE RICK LOWE is offline
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That amount of ITC and satanite will be plenty for the style you're thinking about. Probably enough to do two larger models using kaowool liner. I'm with Brother Carl, try and contact Cap'n Randy at the Ga. Guild site. He's a master on this type of forge construction.


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  #26  
Old 07-27-2011, 03:37 PM
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Eli Jensen Eli Jensen is offline
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Problem solved. I found a pottery supplier in PHX that has them. Gas would be the same as shipping for the bricks anyways, but I convinced the wife that it would be a fun day out (and hence the joint account will be used for gas, instead of the hobby account

I'll read into the coffee can forge too. Is one any better than the other?
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  #27  
Old 07-27-2011, 04:34 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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Coffee can forges are like any other forge - they're as good as you make them. They need not be any more complicated than I described but they can be as sophisticated as you'd care to make it. Here's the one I built:

http://www.rayrogers.com/miniforge.htm

Ignore the burner I used and just worry about the forge body. Even a thin sheet of sheet metal will do (preferably not aluminum as the melting temp is too low). Roll the sheet metal into a small tube, line it with wool, plug the ends with either brick or more wool, insert some kind of burner and you have a minimal forge. Satanite, ITC-100, propane torches, forced air burners, venturi burners, etc ....all this is detail. Build the body, put some heat in it, and then refine it as you decide you need to ....


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  #28  
Old 07-27-2011, 04:42 PM
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Hmmm options options options!!! Could it be possible to make a forge by lining normal bricks with wool?
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  #29  
Old 07-27-2011, 05:19 PM
Doug Lester Doug Lester is offline
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I would not use a normal brick, they are not ment to be used with that kind of heat and could explode on you if they absorbed much water. Then it will be more difficult to make a round or oval chamber to get the fire swirling.

The next time you're at you favorite tool in a box store take a look at how expensive stove pipe isn't. One piece of stove pipe around some 8# ceramic wool matting (Keowool/Inswool) secured with bailing wire, make a cradle out of two insulating brick (soft fire brick) and one fire brick to obstruct the back of the forge if you need to. Then make some sort of a cradle to hold the torch in place and you're ready to go. You might be able to do two layers of 1" insulating matting with an 8" stove pipe but you will probably only be able to do a single layer with 6" stove pipe. Either way should work being that you are only going to use this for austinzining the steel for quenching and normalization.

Doug


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  #30  
Old 07-27-2011, 05:28 PM
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Hmm exploding brick? Maybe next time around lol. Well it was an idea. I think for this time around I like the idea of a brick forge, so I guess I'm going to phoenix on saturday.
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