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#1
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Heat treating question
Hey guys,
Things are a bit slow at work for me, so my boss commissioned a couple of knives to give to his brother in law, an ex professional chef. I am trying to do a top-notch job on this (although I know that I can't match the truly top-notch knife makers ) for a number of reasons, including that he listed off about three or four other people he would want knives for. The two knives so far are a paring knife and a fillet knife. I have them forged, stock removed, and ready for heat treatment. They are made from relatively thin leaf spring stock. My concern is that the fillet blade may warp. This is the thinnest blade I've ever dealt with, and it is pretty long as well. I will be heating the blade using Tai's pipe method, so the temperature is evenly distributed across the blade. I'll quench in pre-warmed veggie oil. I figure I'll try quenching like Tai has described before: kind of easing the blade down into the oil to chase the heat out, dipping up and down every few seconds. Are there any other tips to minimizing warping? I've put two days into it so far and would hate to lose that time and effort. By the way I'll be heat treating tomorrow afternoon, so I'll check to see if I've got any help before then. __________________ The Wasteland Crow Project: http://wastelandcrow.blogspot.com A blog I share with a friend where we think out loud upon occasion: http://shareourcampfire.blogspot.com/ Proud to be a Neo-Tribal Metalsmith scavenging the wreckage of civilization. My new blog dedicated to the metalwork I make and sell: http://helmforge.blogspot.com/ |
#2
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If you interrupt the quench before the blade cools off completely you should be able to straighten it with a pair of gloves before it sets up. It should stop smoking, but be too hot to hold with bare hands.
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#3
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You did not say what steel you are using. I have heard of a few people using real thin 01 doing a plate quench with really good success. Just depends on the steel you are using, the plates would really keep it from warping thought.
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#4
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"They are made from relatively thin leaf spring stock."
I will be very careful and try to do any straightening quickly with heat still in the blade. Thanks, guys. __________________ The Wasteland Crow Project: http://wastelandcrow.blogspot.com A blog I share with a friend where we think out loud upon occasion: http://shareourcampfire.blogspot.com/ Proud to be a Neo-Tribal Metalsmith scavenging the wreckage of civilization. My new blog dedicated to the metalwork I make and sell: http://helmforge.blogspot.com/ |
#5
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Both blades warped, the paring knife down on its tip where it was thinner than the rest of the blade. While they were still warm, I used my gloved hands to massage them back into shape. It worked well. Thanks, Tai!
__________________ The Wasteland Crow Project: http://wastelandcrow.blogspot.com A blog I share with a friend where we think out loud upon occasion: http://shareourcampfire.blogspot.com/ Proud to be a Neo-Tribal Metalsmith scavenging the wreckage of civilization. My new blog dedicated to the metalwork I make and sell: http://helmforge.blogspot.com/ |
#6
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Cool, glad it all worked out for you.
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#7
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Hey Wade, I've seen the term quench plate a lot and it was always something that I just didn't need since I typically don't have any warping problems. I didn't have time to whip anything up for these particular knives, but for future reference, could you tell me more about them? Thanks!
__________________ The Wasteland Crow Project: http://wastelandcrow.blogspot.com A blog I share with a friend where we think out loud upon occasion: http://shareourcampfire.blogspot.com/ Proud to be a Neo-Tribal Metalsmith scavenging the wreckage of civilization. My new blog dedicated to the metalwork I make and sell: http://helmforge.blogspot.com/ |
#8
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Plate quenching is normally done on "air hardening" steels.
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#9
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Of course Tai is right. They are usually thick AL plates for air hardening steels, like stainless and others. What I was talking about was that I had read a couple of articles about using them on 01 becaue the 01 was very thin and the plates could get the heat out of the blade fast enough to get them hard, but would not work on thicker stuff.
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#10
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So, basically they are heat sinks that pull the heat out of the blade, hardening it. The plates do the quenching instead of immersing the blade in a quenching medium. Is that right?
__________________ The Wasteland Crow Project: http://wastelandcrow.blogspot.com A blog I share with a friend where we think out loud upon occasion: http://shareourcampfire.blogspot.com/ Proud to be a Neo-Tribal Metalsmith scavenging the wreckage of civilization. My new blog dedicated to the metalwork I make and sell: http://helmforge.blogspot.com/ |
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