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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #31  
Old 02-17-2005, 11:43 AM
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Jamey Saunders Jamey Saunders is offline
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You'll have fumes, but more immediate is this: Acid Fumes + open flame = BOOM!

At least that's what I've heard.

Best bet may be a hot plate in your driveway.


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  #32  
Old 02-17-2005, 11:51 AM
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good idea!


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  #33  
Old 02-17-2005, 12:12 PM
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im also thinking about trying some electro-etching its a big piece im planing on doing so im guessing itll take mor strikes to get a nice deep etch


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  #34  
Old 02-17-2005, 12:20 PM
peregrine peregrine is offline
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More than U know

Acid vapors are really bad. Muratic is pretty strong. Royal water is worse. :evil

Admittedly, I once did an etch by setting my acid bath in the bathtube filled with hot water. The acid took off and cut really well but all the metal fixtures on cabnets, etc were ruined; so I don't recomment you do this in your kitchen. If you want to heat the acid up, simply place your container in a larger container filled with warm or hot water. The water container will also act as a safety barrier for acid drops as you pull the blade out to clean out the resist.

Play it safe.
Roger

Last edited by peregrine; 02-17-2005 at 12:25 PM. Reason: text
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  #35  
Old 02-17-2005, 12:54 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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YES! Huge vapor problems! Not as bad as the vapors from aqua regia that Peregrine was talking about but still very bad for living things to breathe and more than enough to ruin your oven and any other metal the fumes can reach.

None of the chemicals you have been talking about should even be in your living area, especially after their original containers have been opened. DO NOT heat these chemicals within your living area (the ferric chloride is the least problem but the muriatic is very bad when heated or mixed with ANYTHING else).

The only these chemicals and processes can be considered even halfway safe is when they are done outside or in a VERY well ventillated room that has NO airway that can reach your living area, and even then the proper respirator must be used. Exposure to chlorine gas is a certainty when using muriatic acid and that is never a good thing. In sufficient concentration - or if it mixes with the right materials - it can severely affect your health or even end your life.

If you are unable for any reason to use these chemicals in at least as safe an environment as I have specified then you should dispose of them and forget about this type of etching until you are able to do it under conditions at least as good as those I've described..........


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  #36  
Old 02-17-2005, 05:49 PM
dudeinthehut dudeinthehut is offline
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Vapor is indeed an issue particularly with HCL! Be careful!
Good advice about not mirror polishing before the etch.
You can find Francine's website at www.francineetchings.com
She says that the process takes about 15-30 minutes. I'm not sure about the accuracy of the carbon etching only statement by Roger. I just re-read some of the info on her site. She etches Boye Dendritic Steel, which is investment cast 440C. Clearly, she is etching SS with FC.
Anyway, check out her site and email her direct for the best info. Good luck and be careful. (You may want to get an electric hot-plate so you can work outside.)
Andy
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  #37  
Old 02-17-2005, 06:45 PM
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just emailed her, thanks for the link her etchings are trully a work of art. if i could do 2% of the kind of work she does id be thrilled

bill


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  #38  
Old 02-17-2005, 06:48 PM
Terry_Dodson Terry_Dodson is offline
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If you figure it out, could you post how to do it?
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  #39  
Old 02-17-2005, 07:34 PM
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as soon as i hear from her im going to try it and ill post the results, also this weekend im building an electro-etch unit so im going to try it that way too.



bill


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  #40  
Old 02-17-2005, 08:04 PM
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ive been told that i can use a resist the same way with an electro-etcher as i can with acid will spray paint work for this?


bill


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  #41  
Old 02-17-2005, 08:26 PM
Terry_Dodson Terry_Dodson is offline
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i have heard of people using primer as a resist. but i think regular spray paint should work.
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  #42  
Old 02-17-2005, 09:52 PM
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Francine wrote me back.....
"Hello Bill,
I use an 8 gallon machine that sprays heated ferric chloride onto the knife
blades. I suggested to Andy he might try etching in a flat pan, which I have been
told will work. I have only etched ferric chloride using the machine. Maybe when you
etched the other night, the acid was not heated enough. In the spray tank we heat it
to 95 degrees. In a pan, you may want to heat it a bit hotter using a heat lamp.
I think it should take about 20 minutes, and you need to brush the bubbles and scale
away with a feather to expose the unetched steel below the surface that has been
etched away. Try Testers Flat Black enamel as a resist."

very nice lady, ok now someone get going on a how-to for a homemade heated acid sprayer

bill


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  #43  
Old 02-18-2005, 07:01 AM
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hmmmm, maybe something like this
Bobs got all the cool ideas



bill


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  #44  
Old 02-18-2005, 07:36 AM
Terry_Dodson Terry_Dodson is offline
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how about just using a hot plate on low with the acid in a stainless steel small pot, then puring the ferric chloride into the plastic bowl that has your piece in it, when it cools you could transfer it back to the hot plate and pot and reheat, and clean the pot after every heat so it doesnt dissolve it away.
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  #45  
Old 02-18-2005, 11:46 AM
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i got a hot plate and filled a pot with water and put some muriatic acid in a mason jar and heated it that way, i quit pretty quick there were lots of fumes flying around and i didnt feel too safe. im getting rid of the muriatic and sticking with fc or electro etching (which ever i figure out better). the way i figure i the etch on this knife isnt as important as my (or anyone elses) safety(i know im a wuss 8o ).


Bill


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