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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #31  
Old 11-11-2012, 09:23 AM
Bowman Bowman is offline
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Originally Posted by ranger1 View Post
workHorse, You know you are only about 30 miles from me and you are welcome at my shop anytime. Just let me know when you'd like to come by. i live in Lexington straight down I-85. I don't know much but am glad to share what I do know.
I'd be on this offer like there's no tomorrow. I believe even a short time in a maker's shop can save a new guy a lot of mistakes.
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  #32  
Old 11-11-2012, 12:14 PM
metal99 metal99 is offline
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Besides some disagreements there's some good reading here!

Sam, basically what everyone is trying to do is prevent some heat treat heartache. O1 can make a good knife with less then perfect heat treatment but why not spend less to potentially get a better blade? I made two pretty decent knives from O1 that I heat treated in my coal forge. They passed some pretty basic tests fairly well. The steel I used in my big chopper cost me over $20 and for the same price I got four times te amount of 1084. The heat treat tests I did with the 1084 are showing more promise then the O1 simply because I can not heat treat O1 properly with what I have.

I was mislead when I first bought my knife making steel. There are lots of sites out there with poor information. There were a number of sites that claimed O1 was a great choice for a beginner which was not true. Nobodies trying to pick a fight with you, they are just trying to make WorkHorse's experience a pleasurable one. I wish I would have had the help of Doug and AUBE when I first started out but I didn't. I tried to do it all myself and ended up with a knife shaped object. It works but not very well. My $2 Chinese folder holds a better edge.
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  #33  
Old 11-11-2012, 02:08 PM
Ruebarb Ruebarb is offline
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I am guessing this may be posted elsewhere, but since the general opinion is to use 1084 for beginners, I didn't see anyone post any good sources for how to heat treat it? I've seen videos on how to do 01.
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  #34  
Old 11-11-2012, 02:24 PM
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R. Yates R. Yates is offline
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Here you go Rue :

http://www.centercross.com/?p=content&s=2#14

Sam


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  #35  
Old 11-11-2012, 02:26 PM
Doug Lester Doug Lester is offline
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First of all Aldo at The New Jersey Steel Baron will be able to provide you with heat treating information. However, it's basically to heat to a little above none magnetic, give a a minute or two to soak, without allowing the temperature in the steel to get much hotter, quench in warm oil, then temper at 400? for two 2 hour cycles, and a third wouldn't hurt, and test for hardness.

Even though 1084 is basically hypereutectic, it doesn't need much of a soak because most of the carbides are cememtite, which breaks down at a lower temperature that other carbides. It also lacks the excess carbon that is found in steels like 1095 and 52100 that will promote retained austinite if too much goes into solution in the austinite.

Doug


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  #36  
Old 11-11-2012, 05:29 PM
WBE WBE is offline
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What Doug said, but I would temper at 1425?, to 1450?, for added toughness.
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  #37  
Old 11-11-2012, 05:38 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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Was that a misprint, WBE? Looks like you're about 1000 degrees too high for tempering 1084 ...


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  #38  
Old 11-11-2012, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by WBE View Post
What Doug said, but I would temper at 1425?, to 1450?, for added toughness.
You are way to hot !


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  #39  
Old 11-12-2012, 05:29 AM
WBE WBE is offline
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Originally Posted by Ray Rogers View Post
Was that a misprint, WBE? Looks like you're about 1000 degrees too high for tempering 1084 ...
YES INDEED. A MISPRINT. Remove the 1 from the temp.
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  #40  
Old 12-12-2012, 03:59 AM
Klonk1275 Klonk1275 is offline
 
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Location: Shah Alam, Malaysia
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Hi all I'm new to this and I'm using O1 as my primary steel. Made 9 knives so far. I think this thread is brilliant for a beginner like me as I get to read arguments from vets and hopefully use it in my next knife. Thank you all for contributing and teaching. BTW I'm from Malaysia.
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