Scales

[TwoWheeler]

Anyone have any experience using gorilla glue for attaching scales?

[AcridSaint]

I've used Gorilla Glue on knife handles and it works fine, but you should still use a mechanical fastener in addition to it. I like that the glue works easily, isn't messy and bonds best in thin sections (epoxy usually has a min thickness that is awfully thick for knives). It will treat you well, but I wouldn't trust it more than any other glue to hold scales without any mechanical connection.

[NJStricker]

Gorilla glue works best on porous materials such as unstabilized wood or antler. It foams and expands, which is probably the largest reason knifemakers tend not to use it. The expansion is nice if you have gaps to fill, but it can leave a noticeable glue line, and if your handle is not properly clamped can force scales/handle away from the tang. I tried it and didn't care for the results (thick glue line), but the wood pieces held together. One problem I had with my bottle of Gorilla Glue is that it went bad quickly. Even though I had the lid on tight, it solidified within 4 months. It is susceptible to moisture.

I've been using 2 part epoxy from Golfsmith most recently for attaching knife handles, and it has been performing well.

[AcridSaint]

Nathan - the scales need to be clamped tightly together to reduce the glue line and enhance the bond. If it's done right, you can't see a glue line at all in my experience, the foam should only be present in areas that are not part of the bond. I've used it with natural materials as well as synthetics like carbon fiber without any problems. If we clamp epoxy tight enough to hide the glue line we're almost certainly taking it below the manufacturer's recommended thickness.

For what it's worth, after watching Steve Johnson's video, I've also been using CA quite a bit more.

[chiger]

I've used it too. Been testing it for about a year. Like Cap said it seems to work fine. Having said that, I have not used it on a customer's knife yet. I'm going to carry it for a couple years to make sure.

I use hidden pin attachment. Had a problem 25 years or so ago with a customer knife, so now I'm pretty cautious.

If there is anyone out there that's been using it on scales for two or more years, I'd sure be interested in knowing how it's held up to there testing.

chiger,

[NJStricker]

Thanks Cap. Maybe when my GS epoxy runs out I'll try it again. I've been using spring clamps, which give just enough pressure to hold the scales securely without too much squeeze out with the 2 part epoxy, and have had good success with that. I had a noticeable glue line with the Gorilla Glue when clamping that way, so I'd likely have to use my woodworking vice to apply a little more pressure. Are you roughing the surface of the synthetics any more than you would for any other epoxy?

chiger, what are you using for your hidden pins? I imagine wood dowels would work very well with this glue.

[AcridSaint]

I usually just blast the surfaces and clean with acetone before gluing.

[TwoWheeler]

Thanks guys. Will give a try.

[chiger]

Hey Nathan,

I'd imagine wooden dowels would work just fine with Gorilla glue. But I did as usual and drilled and threaded the tang for a few machine screws. Using epoxy, I like to have the screw threads for it to grip on to. Didn't even think about dowels at the time. Thanks!

chiger,

[NJStricker]

You could always use a 3-square and file a couple of notches in the dowel, but my understanding of the way Gorilla glue works is that you probably wouldn't need it.

[LRB]

Forget the crap glues. If you want a good bond, no glue line, just use Devcon 2 ton, 30 minute epoxy. Drill multiple holes in your tang to make a bridged bonded contact. Clamp the hell out of it, and if everything was properly flat, there will be no visible line, and more than adequate strength. I am constantly amazed at the weird stuff people come up with, to put against a proven concept.

[Andrew Garrett]

Devcon failed pretty early in the now famous 'Glue Wars' thread. Gorilla Glue, which was supposed to perform poorly, amazed the testers--especially when bonding wood to steel!

The thing to remember about expanding urethanes, is that the foam has no strength. It is just a biproduct of the activation process.

I used Gorilla Glue on a few sheaths early on, but I too was uninpressed with the shelf life issue.

These days, I use Loctite 60 minute, and make good mechanical bonds. I think of the epoxy as something to temporarily hold the scales in place while I trim and peen the pins and flare any tubes. After that, it's just a gap filler.

Here's a link to the Glue Wars: http://www.knifenetwork.com/forum/sh...imate+adhesive

Post #226 on page #16 is where Tracy renders his findings. This should be required reading for noobs and vets alike.

[AcridSaint]

LRB and I have had this epoxy discussion before. He knows why I said what I did about epoxy thickness. If you "clamp the hell out of it" you are compromising the glue strength.