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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #1  
Old 01-17-2014, 09:17 AM
Kevster Kevster is offline
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Location: Plano Texas
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Tapered tang ?

I thinking about trying to do this. So I've got a few questions about doing it.

1) after shaping the blank do you drill the pin holes?

2) also before you taper the tang do you drill the scale pin holes?

3) in the bolster area, do you start the taper at the very front or just behind?

# 3 has me worried because if you mess up you just messed the knife up.

My guess would be you start at the very front, but if your bolster is curved how do you do this?

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  #2  
Old 01-17-2014, 01:04 PM
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SVanderkolff SVanderkolff is offline
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1. yes
2. yes

For a tapered tang knife I drill all the holes first, then grind the blade. I then take the tapering of the tang right up to the beginning of the grind for the blade. This ensures you have a flat surface for the installation of the bolsters and slabs and also does not end up with you having a noticeable transition from taper to non taper at the front of your bolster but blends it in to the beginnings of your grind. As for ruining your blade, if you take it slow, work both sides of the knife and mark your grind lines at the back of the tang, you shouldn't have a problem. What are you using to grind the tang? It is also much easier if you hollow out the tang before the flat grinding, uses much fewer belts that way. Hope that helps
Steve


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  #3  
Old 01-17-2014, 01:27 PM
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BigCountry86 BigCountry86 is offline
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You only have to stop the taper before a guard slot if u are doing a guard. For bolsters, you can taper all the way to the plunge cut or stop behind the bolsters, your choice. Its easier fitting if u taper all the way to the plunge cuts.
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  #4  
Old 01-17-2014, 03:34 PM
Jason Fry Jason Fry is offline
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I'm with the other guys, taper all the way to the plunge. Drill the pin holes before the tapering.
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  #5  
Old 01-17-2014, 04:18 PM
Kevster Kevster is offline
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Thanks guys, I'll be trying it soon. I'll be doing it on my homemade 2x72, I talked to a buddy of mine and he told me to wrap some tape around the tip of the knife and put a loop extending over the end so you have something to hold on to. And then use a piece of leather to push the tang to the belt, he said to start small and move up the tang slowly.

I'll give it a try on my next knife and see what happens.
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Old 01-17-2014, 07:30 PM
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Naboyle Naboyle is offline
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As long as you're not using stainless you can get yourself a decent magnet to hold the blade. Harbor freight has a small one with a handle on it. That's what I use and it's never let me down.
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Old 01-18-2014, 05:08 AM
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DanCom DanCom is offline
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Magnets work great on cutlery types of stainless (Martensitic) as well.


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  #8  
Old 01-20-2014, 04:51 AM
cranky72 cranky72 is offline
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lots of good advise. if you contact Rick Menefee he certainly is an xpert on this subject. cranky72
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  #9  
Old 01-20-2014, 05:57 AM
jdale jdale is offline
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I always use those arrow shaped welding magnets to taper a blade, makes a good handle and the grooves are easy to clean out when alternating sides
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2x72, art, back, beginning, blade, bolsters, cutlery, drill, flat, grind, grinding, guard, handle, homemade, knife, leather, problem, scale, stainless, surface, tang, wrap


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