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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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Mill Advice
I purchased a mill recently from craigslist and want to incorporate it into my knife making/learning. I don't know much about milling, but I could not pass this up, the seller delivered it and set it up in my garage at no charge. That was a huge selling point given my situation.
I don't expect you to teach me how to use this thing lol. I am reading and learning. I'll get there. But, hopefully you can give me some pointers for a specific task. I just want to mill a 1/8" slot through some 3/8" brass to make a guard. It came with some 1/8" and 3/32" end mills and I snapped them trying Any and all advice welcome! Thanks. |
#2
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f you tried to slot the 3/8" brass in one pass, it overloaded the cutter. Take it in no more than 1/8" deep steps.
Limit the 3/32" cutter to 1/16" deep passes. It's very difficult to get a 2 flute end mill to cut anything. Use 4 flute end mills, spiral flute. Last edited by Don Robinson; 03-16-2013 at 09:16 PM. |
#3
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Thank you for the information, that is very helpful.
I am wading through end mills right now online trying to find some replacements so your flute advice is very timely. Only looking at 4 flute now. |
#4
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Be sure to get center-cutting end mills. If they are not center cutting you won't be able to plunge the cutter into the part very far before the cutter loads up and becomes useless, except for side milling. Non center cut is doable but you need pilot hole at what ever end you intend to plunge on or both ends if you prefer. Center cut just makes things sooo much easier.
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#5
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Thanks Rick! That makes sense. In my wading though end mills to buy I noticed that distinction but was not sure which one would be best.
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#6
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I prefer to drill a starter hole first. I don't use many center cutting end mills.
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#7
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Hey now, no conflicting advise please... Just kidding of course Always good to have different options and methods
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#8
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In gummy material and taking deep cuts I pre drill the slot. I do the chain of holes .005-.010 larger stepover than the size of your endmill. Then run the endmill through the slot. The problem you might run into is it is difficult to get a good accurate .125 slot by running a .125 endmill through it. It usually cuts slightly over 3-5 thou. I prefer to use a smaller endmill and widen the slot to the right dimension. This way you can get an exact slot size.
Make sure you have the proper speed. Cutting brass with a 1/8 em you will run your spindle at or near max. I run around 2500rpm and it works well. What type of mill did you get?? Rigidity makes a huge difference and a larger mill is more rigid. __________________ http://www.woodchuckforge.com Avatar, Scott Taylor Memorial Scholarship Knife Photo by Bob Glassman Chuck Richards ABS J.S. |
#9
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Hey Chuck, thanks for the information. I will have to doublecheck my RPMs. Good point on the bit size too. I got a mill/lathe combo called Smithy Midas.
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#10
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The Smithy will work but is not very rigid. It is a good hobby unit. Just be ready to break endmills as it happens even to the best machinists. Have a few on hand and order more when you get low.
__________________ http://www.woodchuckforge.com Avatar, Scott Taylor Memorial Scholarship Knife Photo by Bob Glassman Chuck Richards ABS J.S. |
#11
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I use a benchtop mill/lathe primarily for slotting guards. I use center cutting end mills, 4 flute. use a good vise, though not best quality, Phase II makes a good one for this type of work. If I could advise on one tool for you that helps and speeds up work, it would be to buy a laser center finder. I got one from Little Machine Shop on line , they can be had with 1/4,3/8, or 1/2'' shanks and will save lots of time in truing up your slide, vise and work piece in helping you find center of your work, just chuck it up, find center and make sure your slide is running true, lock down your slide and remove laser and install cutting bit and your good to go! And by all means, use an endmill just undersized so you don't over mill and have to start over. A 4 or 6 inch set of calipers is invaluable also. Hope this helps, Wes
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#12
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A laser center finder sounds great, I didnt even know that they existed. It is funny, I was tinkering around with the mill last night after work and was trying to figure centering out. It came with a dead center so I was trying to use that to ensure my vise was square. Definitely not easy for a newbie! A laser center sounds awesome, going to put that on my buy list. Thanks again!
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#13
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I use the wobbly type edge finder at work and have no idea how the laser ones work. The cheap wobbly ones are not worth a darn. They eventually start to lie. A Sterette will last a long, long time.
I've used the series of plunge cuts then connect the dots and it does work. If however you decide to under cut the center, then walk the edges out to size, you need to be ever thoughtful of the difference between conventional milling and climb milling. it has to do with the direction of travel versus the rotation of the cutter and which side of the cutter is doing the work. On an internal hole/pocket like what you are wanting to do you want to travel the sides of the hole in a clockwise direction. The reason being the tool load or direction of deflection of the tool. If you go the opposite direction the tool will Climb ( pull is way along and consecquenty climb away from the material being cut resulting in an uneven and un reliable cut. With conventional milling the deflection will be in line with the direction of travel and result a much smoother cut and reliable dimentions. |
#14
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Youtube can be a real good friend here. I use it all the time when trying something new on my mill.
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Tags |
advice, art, awesome, blade, brass, chain, drill, easy, guard, guards, hand, helping, hobby, how to, knife, knife making, lock, make, making, material, newbie, teach, vise |
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