|
|
The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#16
|
||||
|
||||
Start at 10 degrees and grind until you reach the center line then adjust a little at a time
__________________ Austin Colvin |
#17
|
||||
|
||||
The angle entirely depends on the height of the blade and the purpose of the blade. I like to go to 0.020" to 0.015" at the future cutting edge. I used Blaze 60s for bulk work, and Blaze 120s for smoother work, then Norax belts... obviously I am a Norton fan.
|
#18
|
|||
|
|||
Thank you guys for your help.
Quick question... Is the goal to get to the scribe line ASAP - right away- or do i work at getting there? Sorry if that is confusing. When i start grinding, i usally get to the scribe line asap then feather away the rest of the steel ,is that correct? |
#19
|
||||
|
||||
Whatever works for you is correct. For me, I find that I am less likely to grind the edge too thin if I don't go all the way to the center line right away. I'll grind about half way there and then start working my grind up the blade towards the spine. As I work the edge usually takes care of itself but I keep an eye on it to be sure it doesn't get too thin too fast. My goal is to reach the center line about the same time that the primary grind reaches the height I want ....
|
#20
|
|||
|
|||
That's AWESOME, Thank you!!! I can totally picture that.
How do you know when the blade is "done" being ground? |
#21
|
||||
|
||||
I picture in my mind where I want the grind to go...when it gets there, it's done. Of course, sometimes I screw up a little and have to revise my desired end point but still, eventually, I get there. If nothing else works, I can decide I'm done when both sides match and I'm somewhere near where I wanted the grind to be or somewhere just beyond that where the grind decided it wanted to be.
I like to stop a little short on the initial grind with the 60 grit belt because the coarse belt leaves little scratches across the grind line. The 120 belt continues the grind closer to the finish point, and the subsequent 220 and 400 grit passes take it home with a clean grind line. ... Last edited by Ray Rogers; 07-21-2015 at 09:33 PM. |
#22
|
||||
|
||||
BPitt My .02$ - others may have a different outlook:
When you reach your two pre-decided scribe marks: edge thickness and grind line is when you stop. The other guys are dead on in regards to the progression of belts. The finer grit you finish on and the flatter your grind, the easier it is to hand sand. Another factor to consider when determining your edge thickness is whether you are grinding before or after the blade is heat treated. I shoot for pre- HT thickness around .040~ give or take. Finished edge (post-HT) somewhere between .010 and .025 depending on blade use. Another point about free hand grinding is heat control/management. if you're finish grinding (post-HT) don't let it get too hot or you'll anneal the thing and then you'll have to start all over. Grind without gloves so you can feel the steel being ground, and know when to dip in the water bucket. Good luck - I think you are asking all the right questions! __________________ AT "We shall walk with a walk that is measured and slow, And watch where the chalk-white arrows go To the place where the sidewalk ends." Shel Silverstein Last edited by ATalley; 07-21-2015 at 09:45 PM. |
#23
|
|||
|
|||
ATalley-
Thank you so much. That was perfectly said. |
#24
|
|||
|
|||
Hi Guys,
Questions about flat grinding again. Am i supposed to tilt the platen forward towards me or do i leave it at a 90 degree angel? How do you guys do it? Thank you so much!=) |
#25
|
||||
|
||||
BPITT,
Its easier to leave the platen at 90 degrees to the floor. Spread your feet about shoulders width, pull your elbows back even and into your ribs (you are looking for a solid base that concentrates your bodyweight into the blade and your arms don't get worn out as quickly) forearms should be perpendicular with the floor. Let your torso, legs, hips and knees do most of the movement while your arms make small adjustments as you feel the belt cut,- staying solid. Just let the belt cut in small, even passes. Try to be very intentional about every movement. (Maybe I'm over thinking it. ..) My Dad would ask "How do you eat an elaphent? ~ One bite at a time. .." I think the same principle aplies here. The more even and consistent that grind is, the less humps and buhmps you'll have to sand out by hand later. Good luck! __________________ AT "We shall walk with a walk that is measured and slow, And watch where the chalk-white arrows go To the place where the sidewalk ends." Shel Silverstein |
#26
|
||||
|
||||
Classic! Love it.
|
Tags |
5160, art, belt, belts, blade, block, brand, convex grind, easy, flat, grind, grinder, grinding, hand, help., knife, leather, made, makers, man, polish, satin finish, small, steel |
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
grinding help | tturley | The Newbies Arena | 11 | 11-26-2008 12:06 AM |
Grinding Help | dphipps | The Newbies Arena | 9 | 01-25-2007 10:31 PM |
Could use some grinding help | Tdanza | The Newbies Arena | 13 | 01-01-2007 07:10 PM |
Grinding | LaughAtDo0m | The Newbies Arena | 12 | 08-14-2006 12:45 PM |
grinding | logan | The Newbies Arena | 2 | 03-23-2003 11:24 PM |