|
|
Register | All Photos | FAQ | Members List | Calendar | ShopStream (Radio/TV) | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read |
Texas Knifemakers and Collectors Association Dedicated to promoting custom knives and knifemakers. |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
1095 steel
I bought some 1095 Hi-Carbon steel from jantz supply and i have a couple of questions about it. First question is do i need to coat the blade with some type of material or will it be fine the way it is. Second is where can i get information on how to heat treat it.
|
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
I use 1095 for a lot of knives. Coat the blade???? for what??? I use 1095 hot rolled steel.. I sand off the black outer layer. I cut the blade out.. do any filing and drilling.. before I heat treat.. I also taper the tang and start the bevel.. about half way to finish. To heat treat is not hard: I normalize the steel 3 times..I use a forge.. soooo... you heat the steel to a buttery yellow.. but to really know when it is ready.. USE A MAGNET.. when the steel is buttery yellow throughout the blade.. check it with a magnet.. IF the magnet will not stick.. it is ready. Take the blade out.. stick it in some sand and let it cool to room temp.. do this 3 times. After the Normalization.. it is ready to harden. I use Canola oil as a quench... (I harden the entire blade.. if you want to differentially harden that is another subject). Heat the Canola oil up to about 125 degrees.. (I use a large pot.. large enough to dip the entire blade in the oil). Heat the blade up again to that buttery yellow.. let it go a little past what you did for the normalization.. test it with a magnet.. test it in a few places.. make sure it is NON-MAGNETIC..then let it heat up about a few minutes more.. then with tongs... grab the blade and as fast as you can dunk it in the oil.. (I use a candy thermometer to test the oil temp). Hold it in the oil until it is cooled down considerably.. probably about 2 minutes. (The actual change in the 1095 actually happens in the first 30 secs of hitting the oil). Take the blade out of the oil..( I have some high temp asbestos gloves that I use to actually hold the blade and look at it). Look at the blade.. make sure it is straight. You have about 10 or so minutes after you take it out of the oil.. to straighten the blade if it is warped.. I use a bench vise and have straightened a few blades that way. AFTER the blade has cooled down.. YOU CANNOT straighten that blade.. it will snap like a twig. NOW you want to temper the blade.. I do a triple temper.. in a toaster oven.. it works well.. You get a toaster oven.. and an oven thermometer.. (I don't trust the toaster oven to be the temp it says it is.. so I use an oven thermometer to make sure the temp is constant.) I temper the blades at 400 degrees.. for an hour.. then let it cool down.. to room temp.. and do it again.. and a 3rd time. After that.. I put the blade in a jar of white vinegar and leave it there 24hrs... this eats away any scale that is left. AFTER using the white vinegar.. wash it clean and dry it fast.. or it will rust right before your eyes. Then I do the final grind and finish. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
how long do i need to let it cool down after i take it out of the oven?
|
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
|
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Read this thread... http://www.knifenetwork.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28375
|
Tags |
blade, forge, knife, knives |
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|