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Ed Caffrey's Workshop Talk to Ed Caffrey ... The Montana Bladesmith! Tips, tricks and more from an ABS Mastersmith.

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  #1  
Old 01-14-2010, 07:08 PM
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W.David Brierle W.David Brierle is offline
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50 Lb Little Giant

I am taking a course with Ed at the end of the month. After the class I am picking up a LG. Can I get some feed back on this 50lb LG. The seller is going to sell it to me for $2000.
Thanks
Dave Brierley
Maple Ridge, British Columbia

http://cid-29fc608962483424.skydrive...little%20giant
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Old 01-14-2010, 08:50 PM
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When was the last time it was running? Any broken parts? If not, Id say 2K was a good price. Might need a little TLC, but still a good score from the prices Ive been seeing.

God Bless
Mike


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Old 01-14-2010, 09:14 PM
cdent cdent is offline
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Hi Dave,

Take advantage of the timing and take as many pictures as possible of the hammer and where you're going to place it. The go over them with Ed at the Double Barrel.

Then, what ever you do, don't take the air hammer for a test drive.

Congrats on the hammer and have a great visit down in MT, Craig
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Old 01-14-2010, 10:39 PM
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Congratulations about getting to MT. for classes, I'd utilize Ed's knowledge about the Little Giant. When I was looking at hammers I found his advice invaluable. Good luck!

Julie


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Old 01-15-2010, 08:14 AM
DougCampbell DougCampbell is offline
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Congrats on the fifty pounder, sounds like a sweet deal if it's in decent shape. Have Fun!
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Old 01-15-2010, 08:37 AM
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We'll sure talk about it when your here, but in the meantime, if you can get some pics and maybe post them here, we could give better input.

I've owned several LG 50s over the years, and they have ranged from running like a singer sewing machine, to the Bang, tap, miss blues.

The once constant with all LG hammers is that because they are mechanical, and where designed/built with "play" in them, they require CONSTANT adjustment. When they were the primary hammers in my shop, every Sunday afternoon was "adjust the hammers" day. Once you get them "dialed in" they work wonderfully, but you have to stay on top of the "tuning".

There were a few different styles of 50s, and each has it's pluses and minuses.... but overall they are a very good tool, that has stood the test of time, and with proper care, will likely out live and out work anyone of us.


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  #7  
Old 02-28-2010, 10:30 PM
Miles Undercut Miles Undercut is offline
 
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Little Giant 50-pounder

I have had a Meyer (Mayer?? it's out in the shop across a dark and icy-snowy driveway, sorry) Bros. 50 pounder-- the clone they made after losing control of Little Giant and moving their factory-- since 1991. As Richard Kern says in his book on rebuilding Little Giants, you have to remember you are dealing with a machine that is constantly trying to destroy itself. Mine likes to break its toggle arms, but they were broken and welded many times before I got it. The anvil and hammer blocks keep sliding out of position, but that's because the wedges are not exactly to spec. That worries me because too much lateral stress will break that cast iron sow block. If the one you get does not have a guard covering the spring, make one and mount it immediately-- Kern says when the spring breaks, shards come flying out with the foot pounds of energy of a rifle bullet. Oil the bejesus out of the Pitman and the toggles and the ways every time you use it. I use SAE 30, but I have read that chainsaw bar oil has better cling for the ways. Sid Suedemeier who bought the Little Giant inventory has replacement everything. One bit of advice: make a template for the base while the hammer is lying in the back of the truck so you get the anchor bolts positioned jussssssst right. Specs call for a HUMONGOUS hunk of concrete under it. Mine, with the motor up on top. is bolted to a raft of RR ties and, man, does it ever sway!!
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Old 05-02-2010, 08:44 PM
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David Brierley David Brierley is offline
 
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Cleaning the Little Giant

Hi, I built a base for my hammer out of rail road ties on the weekend and started to clean off the decades of grease off the frame (stayed away from the shaft etc) before I re oil it. I just want to confirm that I used regular chainsaw chain and bar oil?

My shop is almost completely stocked with my tools (including a new miller plasma cutter!). Next week my new Miller stick/Tig welder arrives and I can start fabricating my forges, oil quench tank, forge hood and more. I love my new 300 lb anvil.

The fun is beginning.

Thanks guys for your advice and help.

Soon Ed I'll actually be putting your lessons to use!
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Old 05-02-2010, 10:26 PM
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Hi Dave!

Yep! Use chainsaw bar oil for your hammer. On the main journal bearings, I would always put a small wad a gauze in the oil wells to keep dirt out, and the qauze soaks the oil up and releases it slowly into the main shaft bearings.


Sounds like you just about have everything in order! Looking forward to seeing some pics of the things your building!


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