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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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Started my stabilizing experienent
Well I finally got all my gizmos and gadgets rounded up to start stabilizing.
First the mix: I did 3 different mixes they are as follows. 1.) Acraloid B 72 dissolved with acetone (3 cups of acraloid pellets just covered with acetone) 2cups Minnwax wood hardener 2 cups Acetone 2 cups Danish oil 1 cup 2.) Acreloid B 72 mixture (see above) 2 cups Minnwax wood hardener 2 cups Acetone 2 cups 3.) Acraloid B 72 2 cups Minnwax wood hardener (2 cups) This mix was put into a quart jar. Materials used in each jar were one set of moose antler scales, one set of laced she oak scales, one set of Giraffe Bone scales. All were pulled to 25Hg vacuum ( I know this isnt right, but what my gauge reads) This was done a total of 5 times. On the 6th time, it was valved off and left over night. Will remove tomorrow and let drain, when air dry I will bake them for 2 hours at 200 deg. Will advise on results. God Bless Mike __________________ "I cherish the Hammer of Thor, but I praise the hand of God" |
#2
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Excellent Mike! Glad to hear it - keep us updated!
-Dave __________________ www.ruhligknives.com "The choice isn't between success and failure; it's between choosing risk and striving for greatness, or risking nothing and being certain of mediocrity." - Keith Ferrazi |
#3
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Re: stabilizing
I too will be closely following you progress. The only 'stabilizing' I've tried was saturating Elk antler slabs with Minwax? High Performance Wood Hardener, which seemed to work quite well. The antler asorbed a lot of the hardner, dried clear and hard and solidified the interior of the antler.
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#4
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Mike not sure I am reading it right. You mixed the miaterials in each jar? I would very much like to hear your results because I would like to try something like this too.
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#5
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Wade, Ive been mixing the chemicals in 1qt mason jars, that way any unused chemical can be sealed well. I ended up with 3 different jars with different mixes in each jar.
Looks like the mix with the danish oil will separate over time. Dont know if this is an issue or not. Other two mixes seem to be fine.Have all pieces out and air drying. Will let them dry to touch and put them in the oven later tonight. Anyone know how long these should bake? I understand that there will be some off gassing of flammable vapors so I will be ready for that. Hope one of these turns out well! God Bless Mike __________________ "I cherish the Hammer of Thor, but I praise the hand of God" |
#6
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Looks Like Mix #2 shows the most promise. Mix #1 with the danish oil seems a bit tacky, but may harden over time. #3 seems too soft even after baking.
WARNING!!!!! Started baking at 200 deg in large toaster oven. At 200 deg pieces will ignite. No explosion, just a spontaneous combustion. Lowered oven to 160 worked well watched closely and no flare ups. Cooked at this temp for 2 hours. Brought heat back up to 200 deg with no flare up issues. Will cut scales up on #2 to see what kind of penetration was achieved. Picked up some Thompson Brick sealer tonight will also try this in the mix. I'm thinking 1/3 Acraloid / 1/3 Wood Hardener/ 1/3 Brick Sealer. Anyone tried the brick sealer yet? Also looking for a cheap pressure cooker to put the jars in so I can add pressure after vacuum. Please be careful!!! These mixes will create dangerous amounts of harmful and explosive fumes, work in well ventilated are and be prepared in case of fire. Will post more results as they arise. Thanks and God Bless Mike __________________ "I cherish the Hammer of Thor, but I praise the hand of God" Last edited by DiamondG Knives; 01-11-2010 at 11:17 PM. |
#7
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Mike did the Danish Oil dry better under the UV rays?
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#8
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Larry
I havnt checked it since I put it into the window sill. Ive been singing the "frozen busted pipes blues" this week! And to make it better, I think I was the last one in 3 counties to start! All the local places are out of PVC fittings till Friday! Will let ya know just as soon as I check it! I really appreciate the tip! God Bless Mike __________________ "I cherish the Hammer of Thor, but I praise the hand of God" |
#9
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just trying to fiqure out if you guys are trying to blow up the shop or get sick from the fumes! get some ZK-TR 90 resin and your problems will be done! easy clean up and SAFE!!!!
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#10
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I agree although I haven't used the resin yet. I have some wood that Jon stabilized and it is top notch (he is not paying me to say this) I did some tests comparing his wood to some WSSI stabilized wood and there were no differences. I have a chunk of flame cotton wood that is as heavy or maybe even heavier as a chunk of coco bolo. Sure a galon of the resin Jon has is more then most of the stuff your using but the benefit is the fact that its a heat set resin. No evaporation, shrinking or anything like that. Whatever goes into the wood stays there and becomes rock hard like plexi glass when cured. All the products you are playing with are pretty much the same things I have played with and they all disappointed me when I was finished with my tests. Simply because stuff like minwax wood hardener is (I might get this wrong) 8% solids so if you get 100% penetration your left with maximum 8% increase in solids.
Not trying to be rude man. I was in your shoes a year ago and have a lot invested into my chambers, pumps and nearly useless chems that I have no use for anymore. The only thing I use is my vac pump when I'm making mosaic pins. |
#11
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Necro Post
__________________ http://www.woodchuckforge.com Avatar, Scott Taylor Memorial Scholarship Knife Photo by Bob Glassman Chuck Richards ABS J.S. |
#12
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Necro post?
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#13
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Last post was Jan 2010. It died a peacful death. Then it was dug up again. :-)
__________________ http://www.woodchuckforge.com Avatar, Scott Taylor Memorial Scholarship Knife Photo by Bob Glassman Chuck Richards ABS J.S. Last edited by Woodchuck Forge; 10-09-2012 at 01:05 AM. |
#14
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Ahh lol
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advice, antler, easy, knifemaking, making, man, mosaic, notch, pins, post, resin, wax, wood |
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