Stencil Developer

[chuckj6]

I have built Bob's stencil making unit waiting for the supplies to come from IMG. I have read several different accounts about how to use the developer. My question stems from developing film from years ago when the shelf life of the mixed developer was not very long.

Sooooo, how much developer do you usally mix up at one time and how long will it last in the mixed container. Is it light sensitive. I suppose all those instructions will come with it, however, I found such a wealth of information here I am feeling at home here. This is a great place for new ideas. Thanks.

[Bob Warner]

Chuck, welcome.

I only mix up enough to make the one stencil.

I store mine (full strength, not mixed) in a cabinet and light does not hit it but I doubt that it would be a problem anyway.


And hey, welcome home.

[chuckj6]

Thanks Bob for the reply. Trying to get a feel for this without wasting to much developer to expierment with. What would you say would be a starting point. I know that will depend on the vessel used for developing. Do you just cover the material or have enough to swish it around.

Thanks again for your help. This seems like a good place to get questions answered. I will be back. Chuck

[Bob Warner]

I use the lid from a one gallon jar (like you make tea in) and fill it 1/4 with developer and 1/4 with water.

This will make a couple stencils (logo size, about 2" sq) at one time but Ithrow it out afterwards. Mix new for the next time.

[Jerry Shorter]

Bob, The directions on the developer bottle from IMG says 1 quart will make 1 gallon which is 3 parts water to 1 part developer. Does a 50/50 mix work better.
Jerry S.

p.s. Oh ya, and the instructions say agitate constantly for 8-1/2 minutes. is this correct?

[Bob Warner]

To be honest, I never read the directions (I'm not much for directions). The very first time I mixed it I used 50/50 and went from there.

If I were you I would play with all different mixtures.


I agitate and then leave alone for a minute or so and agitate again (my wife hates it when I do that to her).

[plain ol Bill]

Bob thanks for taking the time to experiment and give others the chance to make their own stencils using your methods and help. Now to the post here: Being naturally not too bright I mixed my developer according to the info provided by IMG (mix one part developer to 3 parts water). I mixed for a total volume of maybe 1/2 pint in a plastic sandwich container w/ a lid on it. I am reusing the mixture over and over. It did not occur to me that the mix could not be used over and over so I will continue to do so till it does not work anymore. I'm still learning which fonts reproduce well and how heavy the lines have to be to etch well.
Bob have you experimented w/ any gray scale clip art to see how they work with stencils? I'm curious about exposure time in the box w/ grey versus black art work to get it to reproduce well.

[Bob Warner]

The stencil material works in a manner that either you are blocking the etching or you are not, no partial blocking.

I hoped at frist (when I started digging into how all this works) that I could use gray scale prinouts to get equaly grey scale stencilas and gray scale marks on my blade. Unfortunately that does not work. It's all or nothing.

Therfore you have to completely block the logo area so the solution will wash away the unexposed resist after developing. If it was not blocked good enough, it was exposed to light. That is why thin lines don't do well, there is not enough weight to the line to block the light and it ends up getting exposed.Hope this answers your question.