|
|
Register | All Photos | FAQ | Members List | Calendar | ShopStream (Radio/TV) | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read |
Knife Kits Forum New to the art of knife making? Learn to make awesome knives, using advanced hands-on training inside. From KnifeKits.com. |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
||||
|
||||
Blade Play?
OK, I've finished my first kit a GX6, it's fit & finish isn't perfect, but it's not bad. One thing that is bad is the blade play. If the pivot is loose enough to where I like it there's side to side wobble. When I tighten it down to remove the wobble it's what I would consider stiff.
Now, I'm not faulting the kit, I think it's very well designed and the tolerences were excellent. I believe it has more to do with me either over-finishing the tang or maybe that I took it apart and put it back together a couple of hundred times. Sorry, but I was like a kid with a new toy. My questions for you Pros is; What can I do to help this knife? What do I need to watch out for the next time? Also it seems no matter how tight I have the pivot if I put any side pressure on the blade, (sharpen or strop) it needs to be tightened again. I really don't understand how putting pressure on the blade loosens the pivot. Do I need Lock-Tite or something? Do I need to replace the Teflon washers? Hep Me....Hep Me Please! :confused: |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
"Do I need Lock-Tite or something? "
Phil- you just said the magic words. |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
Phil-
As Don said, take out your pivot pin, put on a small drop of lock-tite (I prefer to use the type which can be mechanically "broken"...it's called removeable locktite). Set the pivot pin to the tightness you like and let it dry. You shouldn't have any more problems... More than any other kit, I find that the GPC is in need of this treatment...without it , it's either too tight or too loose (as you've already learned). But thankfully, once the "fix is in", it's a great little knife... Dennis Yeah Baby! |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
Phil,
You could also use a product like 'White Lightning' on the washers. The fit should be a little stiff and should also break in nicely. If it starts out too loose, it will get looser. Wobble in the blade is not something that you want. Loctite blue is what you want. They also use it for mounting scopes and accessories on firearms. Have fun, Bob Sigmon |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
Thanks for the replys guys.
I posted this morning before I went to work, and I knew you folks would come through with some answers by the time I got home. Of course I've heard of Loctite and took a guess as to what it could do for me, but I don't have any nor have I ever had a need for it before. So of course I didn't have any with me at work today to try. I do have White Lightning and I did try it before I posted, it didn't help the problem. But, I was playing with my knife at work and what I did try was to cut out a paper doughnut and slipped it on the linerlock side of the pivot between the Teflon washer and the blade. Now I know a paper washer isn't the answer, but it sure did improve the action. Is it possible I took too much metal off of the tang and need either thicker washers or can washers become compressed and need to be replaced? |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
Phil,
You are spoiled with your Washburn folder. NOTHING opens as effortlessly as that. Tough standard to duplicate. Make sure you have read this thread about blade friction--especially on the GX6's. Teflon is notably softer (and slipperier) than nylon, and will deform slightly if worked. But, I can't imagine a little stropping to wear it. Hope the other guys are more right than me. I use some really light oil and that's enough. Coop __________________ Jim Cooper - Capturing the Artistry and Significance of Handmade Knives ?? New website improvement for 2010 - Over 5000 images searchable by maker's name! ?? |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
Phil,
I think that you need to work on your blade flicking muscles!! Seriously, Coop may have hit on the answer you're comparing to a custom! The kits are really close but some custom makers have just the best fit. I'll bet that Darrel's customs feel much better that the kits. You can only do so much with mass production. At Tom Anderson's Folder-In, I got to handle many of his knives and it is amazing what knowing how to use the right machines can make a difference in how a folder works! Nylatron washers might be better but finding the right size for the kits is going to be a challenge. Good Luck, Bob I have seen Loc-tite at auto parts stores in this area. Other than that you can order from MSC |
#8
|
||||
|
||||
Loctite (Blue) ordered.
Coop, I'm not comparing this to a custom, but when I say it was stiff I mean it was stiff. I read that thread you suggested way before I started on the kit. I don't know why but that paper washer I added has done the trick. But what do I need to do to make it a little bit more permanent? "Nylatron washers" huh? |
#9
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Methinks you need a washer thicker than .020" or that ball needs tuning. I'd go after the ball. At any rate you figured it out! Coop __________________ Jim Cooper - Capturing the Artistry and Significance of Handmade Knives ?? New website improvement for 2010 - Over 5000 images searchable by maker's name! ?? |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
To smooth out and/or lighten the action, I've had success with the following modifications:
- jewel polish the bearing surfaces on the blade and frame. The swirls from jeweling seem to work better than a high polish. - switch to nylatron or brass washers for less compression over time. - drill a series of decorative holes in the lock bar to lighten the pressure against the blade. The GPC and GX frames are thicker than on the DDR models and provide a lot more tension. This step really improved the action on my GPC's, by reducing the pressure against the blade, while not changing the travel, nor apparent strength of the lock - obviously, some risk here of going overboard and destroying that liner. Try this step cautiously. |
Tags |
blade, knife, knives |
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|