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Heat Treating and Metallurgy Discussion of heat treatment and metallurgy in knife making.

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  #16  
Old 06-18-2005, 06:49 AM
RJ Martin RJ Martin is offline
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This is an interesting thread. The technology-based portion of my brain says "go with the commercial product-spend the $$ ad do it right". Another part of my brain says "results are probably based as much on viscosity and water content(of the oil) as anything else"

So, if I were seling my knives, like Kevin says, I'd want to go commercial. If I were a hobbiest, I'd use what I had (cheap) access to, or what I liked. But, I'd keep it in a sealed container when I wasnt using it, and, I'd make sure I heated it to the same temp before use. Quenching oil is all about heat transfer, and, from my limited experience I know that it's the viscisity of the oil that (primarily) determines this. Heating the oil to 120F isn't just for preventing thermal shock-it's to thin the oil so the heat transfer rate is improved.

And, I'd stay away from any type of used oil. Used oils are loaded with acids and other nasty chemicals that will be detrimental to your knife steel (and your lungs!)


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  #17  
Old 06-18-2005, 05:59 PM
Coutel Coutel is offline
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I have a question about quench mediums as well.....I understand Kevins comment about using the right "quench'' oil to do the job correctly............but what about the use of (quench) salts?....Does one type of salt quench all , or should there be different salts for different types of alloys (do they all dissipate heat fast enough)?

For instance..will Brownells Bluing salts quench just as well as a commercial made 'quenching salt'?.........


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  #18  
Old 06-18-2005, 11:13 PM
Kevin R. Cashen Kevin R. Cashen is offline
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It is not a matter of the type of salts used for a steel, but instead the type of steel you can quench in salts. Salts cool on par with the slower commercial quench oils, so you are limited to oil hardening steels for best results. 1095 has a real hard time forming 100% martensite in 1/4" thickness or better when quenched into salts.

As for Brownells bluing mixes, I don't need to worry about it since it is just easier for me to get 400lbs of Park's thermo quench salts, and they do exactly what they were designed for quite well for me so far.

Although it is made of minerals, low temp salt would have no mineral oil in it at all however .
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  #19  
Old 06-19-2005, 08:48 AM
Coutel Coutel is offline
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Thanks.


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  #20  
Old 06-19-2005, 02:19 PM
Rudy Joly Rudy Joly is offline
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I just finished a quench in straight anti-freeze. I've been wanting to try it for a while now.
It worked great on the 1095 blade. No flare-ups or tons of smoke. The blade came out almost as clean as when it went in the forge, the scale dropped right off in the anti-freeze.
No suprises on the file test either. Next try will be on a couple of O-1 blades. Has anyone tried this...stop me before it,s too late.
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  #21  
Old 06-25-2005, 06:26 PM
Bob Barnett Bob Barnett is offline
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I use peanut oil less complaints from everyone and the scale isn't as bad.
Just me and I'm along way from good.
Peace
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  #22  
Old 06-26-2005, 01:11 AM
Phydeaux Phydeaux is offline
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Not wanting to spend alot of $$ on my hobby, I just use the motor oil from my most recent oil change (5W-20W, run 3000 miles in a Ford Windstar). I heat it up on my gas BBQ to about 130-140 degrees F be fore quenching (I use 01 tool steel and a one brick forge).

The only problem I've had is when I accidentally and un knowingly spilled some of the oil on the BBQ. When I pre heated the grill a few days later to cook a piece of tri tip, it started billowing our white smoke. Don't worry, I burned out the motor oil and dinner didn't taste like I cooked it in the engine compartment while driving home from work.

On a side note, if you need to convert measurements of any almost any type, here's a url that will help: http://www.onlineconversion.com/


Ric Lee
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