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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #31  
Old 07-12-2012, 04:56 AM
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All I have to say is ANY tool would fit in your description of "Dremel". Tool's are inanimate and not capable of fault.


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  #32  
Old 07-12-2012, 08:40 AM
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Its simply a matter of using the right tool for the job. You wouldn't use an angle grinder for filework. I wouldn't use a dremel.
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  #33  
Old 07-12-2012, 08:32 PM
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Actually, you're both right.
I have a quick question about stabilized wood scales and didn't want to start a thread about it, iffn I could bend yer ears for a sec.
I ordered stabilized scales from K&G Supp;y. They are 3/8" thick. I would like to bring them down to 1/4". I don't own a planer but I do have a stationary belt sander that's large enough for the task. I'm worried about heat friction and whether or not it's practical to remove that much material from a stabilized scale. How abrasive can I get with it?


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  #34  
Old 07-12-2012, 09:39 PM
EdStreet EdStreet is offline
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Depends on the wood. I have some wood that will eat up bits, belt and anything else I throw at it. I have had other wood that if you stare at it to hard it will break. Stabilizing properly will make it easier to work. I would not use a planer but a belt sander works wonders for this, this is why I like my 4x36. there is NO heat build up on it at all.

This is a perfect job for a belt sander something non-2x72.


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  #35  
Old 07-13-2012, 01:23 AM
metal99 metal99 is offline
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What I like to do it just put the scales on the knife leaving them as thick as they are. After you install them then I rough shape everything on the belt sander and finish up by hand with a small sanding block just so the pins don't go "proud" that way you can get a good feel for the shape as your working it.

Oh and BlackNet, I do all that on a 1x42 my first one was done with a dremel!!! Let's just say if you want something to be done your going to find a way to do it with what you have. It doesn't matter what size your belt sander is and you don't even need a belt sander to do anything!
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  #36  
Old 07-13-2012, 05:19 AM
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Use fresh belts and some form of dust accumulator as well as a filtered mask. Some of the stabilized woods sand very well, some ok, but some are very gummy and will clog your belts and/or friction burn on the surface. Slowest speed (if you have that option) and medium light pressure.
I only do this type of reducing when the dimensions are way oversized. Normally I approach the issue much the same as metal99, because I prefer "shaped" handles.
You are only removing an 1/8", but you know what you want to accomplish. Watch it closely, 1/8" will dissapear quite rapidly on a fresh belt.


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  #37  
Old 07-13-2012, 07:51 AM
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Thanks guys! My belt is 3X21 and the unit has variable speed control with a detachable dust collector. I currently have #40 and #80 belts for it but can easily pick up other grits... have to take it slow because I know wood can get hot on that belt. I'll get it close to 1/8" removal and then hit it with a hand block sander. I also have orbital handhelds but they will leave tiny circular scars which I think would be hard to remove.


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  #38  
Old 07-13-2012, 02:22 PM
Cthulhu Cthulhu is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crex View Post
"Dremels are sloppy and a recipe for disaster."
Dremels are just tools same as hammers....it's the skill of the user that puts the unwanted dents in hot steel, not the hammer.


Agreed. The mistakes are in the hands of the maker, if mistakes are to be had.

A Dremel just means you can make your mistakes faster.
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  #39  
Old 07-27-2012, 09:31 PM
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Hi all,
Thought I'd give a quick update on my progress with the detail filing.
Since I last posted I've completed a kit knife which I posted in the Kit Gallery. That went well and I learned a lot.
Meanwhile... this is where I'm at with the knife that I'd filed the vine pattern into. I've filled the file voids with epoxy, then sanded it flush. Pictured below I have done a second run of epoxy to fill misc voids and will sand again once cured. Once that's done I can get on to shaping the scales and finish work.
I'm using System 3 epoxy with their proprietary pigment paste. So far, so good.

skinner 1 epoxy sand 1200.jpg


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  #40  
Old 07-28-2012, 05:54 AM
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Looking pretty good Chris. Waiting to see the finished knife.


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  #41  
Old 08-02-2012, 01:51 PM
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Thank you Carl. I have just completed this one. Not A+ perfect but a great learning experience and I'm ready for more. Still so much to learn!



Attached Images
File Type: jpg skinner 1 top.jpg (325.1 KB, 1 views)


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Last edited by rockhound; 08-02-2012 at 09:33 PM.
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  #42  
Old 10-30-2012, 11:39 AM
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This is a practice piece of steel (leaf spring I think?).
I wanted to see if System Three epoxy with proprietary pigment would bleed into (or stain) vulcanized spacer material.
Success!
I'm currently doing another stock-removal build from ATS-34 (not pictured) and wanted to experiment before applying it to an actual build.
I used a combination of both diamond and steel files for this pattern.


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  #43  
Old 11-01-2012, 09:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eli Jensen View Post
Originally Posted by Crex
"Dremels are sloppy and a recipe for disaster."
Dremels are just tools same as hammers....it's the skill of the user that puts the unwanted dents in hot steel, not the hammer.

Then I should rephrase:

Dremels, in my opinion, are just sloppy tools when used for detailed filework compared to hand files and, again in my opinion, are much less suited to those not experienced in high speed rotary tools for detail work.
Since rotary tools move in one direction (hence "rotary" and not "oscillary") it is difficult to control the movement because there is pull in one direction. I agree that this can be mastered, like anything else, but it's frustrating at first and I would advise anyone to practice lots before letting the Dremel loose on your masterpiece... I've dabbled with the Dremel to do engraving in wood and antler but not with much success. I mostly use it for cleaning up tight spaces where it doesn't matter much if the tip "slips" out of the crack...
There is an oscillating saw out there which apparently can be adapted to take Dremel-type bits, but I haven't tried it.

BTW- nice work on the filing, though...


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  #44  
Old 11-01-2012, 10:58 AM
Cthulhu Cthulhu is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockhound View Post
This is a practice piece of steel (leaf spring I think?).
I wanted to see if System Three epoxy with proprietary pigment would bleed into (or stain) vulcanized spacer material.
Success!
I'm currently doing another stock-removal build from ATS-34 (not pictured) and wanted to experiment before applying it to an actual build.
I used a combination of both diamond and steel files for this pattern.


Looks outstanding, Rockhound. Well done.
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