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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#31
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All I have to say is ANY tool would fit in your description of "Dremel". Tool's are inanimate and not capable of fault.
__________________ Carl Rechsteiner, Bladesmith Georgia Custom Knifemakers Guild, Charter Member Knifemakers Guild, voting member Registered Master Artist - GA Council for the Arts C Rex Custom Knives Blade Show Table 6-H |
#32
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Its simply a matter of using the right tool for the job. You wouldn't use an angle grinder for filework. I wouldn't use a dremel.
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#33
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Actually, you're both right.
I have a quick question about stabilized wood scales and didn't want to start a thread about it, iffn I could bend yer ears for a sec. I ordered stabilized scales from K&G Supp;y. They are 3/8" thick. I would like to bring them down to 1/4". I don't own a planer but I do have a stationary belt sander that's large enough for the task. I'm worried about heat friction and whether or not it's practical to remove that much material from a stabilized scale. How abrasive can I get with it? __________________ Stay away from fast women and slow horses |
#34
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Depends on the wood. I have some wood that will eat up bits, belt and anything else I throw at it. I have had other wood that if you stare at it to hard it will break. Stabilizing properly will make it easier to work. I would not use a planer but a belt sander works wonders for this, this is why I like my 4x36. there is NO heat build up on it at all.
This is a perfect job for a belt sander something non-2x72. __________________ Gold is for the mistress - silver for the maid Copper for the craftsman cunning in his trade. "Good!" said the Baron, sitting in his hall But steel - cold steel is master of them all. Rudyard Kipling (1865 - 1936) |
#35
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What I like to do it just put the scales on the knife leaving them as thick as they are. After you install them then I rough shape everything on the belt sander and finish up by hand with a small sanding block just so the pins don't go "proud" that way you can get a good feel for the shape as your working it.
Oh and BlackNet, I do all that on a 1x42 my first one was done with a dremel!!! Let's just say if you want something to be done your going to find a way to do it with what you have. It doesn't matter what size your belt sander is and you don't even need a belt sander to do anything! |
#36
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Use fresh belts and some form of dust accumulator as well as a filtered mask. Some of the stabilized woods sand very well, some ok, but some are very gummy and will clog your belts and/or friction burn on the surface. Slowest speed (if you have that option) and medium light pressure.
I only do this type of reducing when the dimensions are way oversized. Normally I approach the issue much the same as metal99, because I prefer "shaped" handles. You are only removing an 1/8", but you know what you want to accomplish. Watch it closely, 1/8" will dissapear quite rapidly on a fresh belt. __________________ Carl Rechsteiner, Bladesmith Georgia Custom Knifemakers Guild, Charter Member Knifemakers Guild, voting member Registered Master Artist - GA Council for the Arts C Rex Custom Knives Blade Show Table 6-H |
#37
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Thanks guys! My belt is 3X21 and the unit has variable speed control with a detachable dust collector. I currently have #40 and #80 belts for it but can easily pick up other grits... have to take it slow because I know wood can get hot on that belt. I'll get it close to 1/8" removal and then hit it with a hand block sander. I also have orbital handhelds but they will leave tiny circular scars which I think would be hard to remove.
__________________ Stay away from fast women and slow horses |
#38
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Quote:
Agreed. The mistakes are in the hands of the maker, if mistakes are to be had. A Dremel just means you can make your mistakes faster. |
#39
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Hi all,
Thought I'd give a quick update on my progress with the detail filing. Since I last posted I've completed a kit knife which I posted in the Kit Gallery. That went well and I learned a lot. Meanwhile... this is where I'm at with the knife that I'd filed the vine pattern into. I've filled the file voids with epoxy, then sanded it flush. Pictured below I have done a second run of epoxy to fill misc voids and will sand again once cured. Once that's done I can get on to shaping the scales and finish work. I'm using System 3 epoxy with their proprietary pigment paste. So far, so good. skinner 1 epoxy sand 1200.jpg __________________ Stay away from fast women and slow horses |
#40
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Looking pretty good Chris. Waiting to see the finished knife.
__________________ Carl Rechsteiner, Bladesmith Georgia Custom Knifemakers Guild, Charter Member Knifemakers Guild, voting member Registered Master Artist - GA Council for the Arts C Rex Custom Knives Blade Show Table 6-H |
#41
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Thank you Carl. I have just completed this one. Not A+ perfect but a great learning experience and I'm ready for more. Still so much to learn!
__________________ Stay away from fast women and slow horses Last edited by rockhound; 08-02-2012 at 09:33 PM. |
#42
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This is a practice piece of steel (leaf spring I think?).
I wanted to see if System Three epoxy with proprietary pigment would bleed into (or stain) vulcanized spacer material. Success! I'm currently doing another stock-removal build from ATS-34 (not pictured) and wanted to experiment before applying it to an actual build. I used a combination of both diamond and steel files for this pattern. __________________ Stay away from fast women and slow horses |
#43
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Quote:
There is an oscillating saw out there which apparently can be adapted to take Dremel-type bits, but I haven't tried it. BTW- nice work on the filing, though... __________________ Chris K. Two Mountains Forge Delta, BC, Canada www.twomountainsforge.com |
#44
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Quote:
Looks outstanding, Rockhound. Well done. |
Tags |
art, bee, blade, building, diamond, file, file work, files, forge, forged, handle, knife, knives, make, material, pattern, post, rod, sharp, simple, steel, stock removal, stone, supplies, vine |
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