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  #1  
Old 02-12-2007, 07:20 PM
huj huj is offline
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Red face choice advice

im using rivets to hold the wood handle to the handle of the knife and i just want to know what you guys think of that idea, also i would like to know a good wood that is nice looking and easy to work with for a beginer to shape, stain, and whatnot to it and any other advice on things to watch out for and to pay close attention to while putting the knife together.
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  #2  
Old 02-12-2007, 07:38 PM
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Black walnut is always a beautiful choice and easy to work with in my opinion. But you will find that everyone's opinion differs some what on this subject. Need more info on the type of rivets you are using. I'm sure there is a lot more advice forth coming.


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  #3  
Old 02-12-2007, 07:56 PM
huj huj is offline
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i was thinking of something that is more common, something that will be durable, also if i use wood from the forest do i need to do anything special to the wood before i set it in
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  #4  
Old 02-12-2007, 09:28 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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If you don't know the answer to you own question about using wood from the forest you should probably leave that for later. In other words, there are so many variables there that it is unlikely anyone can answer that for you in any way that would guarantee success.

My advice that I always give to Newbies is give yourself a break! Order a catalog from several of the major knife supply houses like Sheffield's, K&G, Jantz, and Texas Knifemakers. Those catalogs will show you pictues of every type of rivet, many types of wood, all the tools you need to work with those rivets and that wood, AND some have instructions with PICTURES on how all that stuff works and techniques for assembly.

I like Loveless rivet myself because they are strong and easy to use but Corby rivets have a better appearance. Regular cutlery rivets are crap and virtually no one uses them for any knife that they want to be proud of.

As for wood, it's hard to beat good ol' cheap Dymondwood for that first knife or two. It comes in many different looks, is easy to work, polishes great, and is as strong and durable as any wood could be.

But, you could see all that for yourself if you had some of those catalogs in front of you so go get 'em!

And let us see what you make from all that...


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  #5  
Old 02-13-2007, 01:07 AM
logem logem is offline
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Ray Rogers has some good suggestions.

Try some dymondwood. If you want your first knife to look outstanding, use tigerstripe dymondwood.

Of course, you will have to sand it, and then buff it before it looks presentable.

Mike L.
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  #6  
Old 02-13-2007, 06:22 AM
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If you *want* to use wood from the forest, plan on aging it a few years before use.


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  #7  
Old 02-13-2007, 08:35 AM
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NJStricker NJStricker is offline
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Guys, based on huj's other thread, he is looking for the ultimate in inexpensive knifemaking.

So I'm guessing that he's not wanting to put out money for dymondwood and shipping.

huj, the answer to your question about forest wood is, yes, you can use just wood out of the forest, but it must be properly dried or cured. Two ways to do this. Option one is to cut the tree, strip the bark, seal the cut ends, and then let it sit in a dry barn for 2 or more years. Option 2 is to cut the tree, take it to your kiln and kiln dry the log. Then cut. If not properly cured the wood will shrink and crack. Not something you'd want to see on a knife 6 months after you've finished it.

You can't get anything more common than black walnut if you are looking for a wood that is readily available and easy to work with. That, or maple, or cherry. If you have a small independent lumber mill in your area, ask them if they have any walnut crotch wood. Before sawing, they usually cut out the tree fork as they want straight grain for lumber. The fork/crotch will sometimes have nice grain.

As an alternative, your local Lowes or Home Depot will have small pieces of red oak. They will have other woods as well--aspen, poplar, cedar, etc.--that will be too soft for knife handles. Another option is to go to a place that specializes in flooring. Ask them for some samples of hardwood flooring. They may have some exotic hardwood or bamboo flooring that may be thick enough for knives. And if they have some as samples (or in damaged lots) they may even give them to you for free. If you have a Goodwill or Salvation Army store nearby, check out the household goods section. Some of the older carved wood salad bowls, decorative platters, etc., were sometimes made from exotic hardwoods--cocobolo, rosewood, etc. They are often hard to find, and may be in an odd shape, but you can sometimes find something usable for a small knife.

Once you find wood you like and install it on your blade you'll need to seal the wood with tung oil or something similar. By sealing the wood, you reduce the amount of expansion or shrinkage due to changes in atmospheric moisture, which the wood would absorb if left unsealed. A couple of simple options here would be to use Tru-Oil (available at some sportings good stores with a hunting section, as it's used to refinish gun stocks). Or, you could go the synthetic route and use a polyurethane finish. Wood on a knife handle isn't any different from wood in furniture. For a hard-use knive, you may want to look into a marine spar finish, used for treating wood decks on boats, but that may give you a very glossy/slippery handle depending on how many coats you apply.

As for the rivets, I don't think that will make the most durable or most attractive handle. At your local hardware store, go to the welding section and look for thin brass brazing rods. They may have copper also, but make sure to get ones without flux. They will come in a variety of thicknesses up to 1/8 inch, I think. Get the thinner ones, or whatever you think will add an attractive touch to your knive. One length will run you under $2 and will be plenty for several knives. Ask around, some of those places will also carry narrow brass tubing you can use for thong tubing. Look up the tutorials on this site and elsewhere for peining the pins and flaring/beveling the thong tubing.

If you are wanting to add decorative liners or spacers, some guys on here have used Solo plastic plates to add a touch of color.

Last edited by NJStricker; 02-13-2007 at 08:40 AM.
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  #8  
Old 02-13-2007, 11:37 AM
huj huj is offline
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thanx alot that pretty much covered it
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  #9  
Old 02-13-2007, 01:15 PM
huj huj is offline
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iunno i think i will just use plain rivets, kuz this knife is probably going to be just my firest and this one will be a learning experience.


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----------------------If i ever used Oosic as a handle material, I'd feel like less of a man. So save a walrus and use wood lol
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  #10  
Old 02-13-2007, 01:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huj
iunno i think i will just use plain rivets, kuz this knife is probably going to be just my firest and this one will be a learning experience.
Hey, whatever floats your boat. They are all learning experiences.
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  #11  
Old 02-13-2007, 02:13 PM
AcridSaint AcridSaint is offline
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I'll give another vote for walnut as an affordable and easy to get wood. This stuff is quite stable so it makes a good handle without making stabilizing totally necessary. Danish oil will put a nice finish on it after you're done shaping, they have a lot of different shades to choose from and a can of it will last you a long time.


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  #12  
Old 02-13-2007, 03:38 PM
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Osprey Guy Osprey Guy is offline
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I know this is going to seem a little heavy-handed...but this is the second thread I've read that was started by Huj...and they both seemd to take the same course. In response I feel compelled to say something...

With all due respect to Huj, this is the second time you've posted a thread asking for advice...and in each thread you've pretty much announced that you were going to ignore the advice that was offered. In both cases you seemed like you were really just looking for us to condone your otherwise poor choices.

First, you need to do your homework! And then, if you're going to ask for advice at least give some indication that you intend on taking, or at least considering, the advice that's been offered.

It's been explained to you that a nice knife can be made without a whole lot of investment. There's an old expression: Penny wise...Pound foolish. You seem hell bent on making a knife with no investment of any kind...in money or time. And that my friend is a recipe for disaster.

There's an incredible wealth of free information to be found in these forums...and some of the best makers in the world are here, willing to help you in any way they can. We welcome newbies with open arms...all we ever expect in return is that you indicate a desire and the will to learn.

Right now you may have the desire, but you know next to nothing about knifemaking. If you are willing to put in some time for education...and yes, invest a little bit of money, in a year or less you could be turning out some nice knives.

'nuff said.


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Last edited by Osprey Guy; 02-13-2007 at 03:44 PM.
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  #13  
Old 02-13-2007, 10:58 PM
huj huj is offline
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Talking

armory414 you have been a great help in both of my posts and i just want to thank you and all of you guys for all you advice and warnings and i will definitely take it all into account, and maybe who knows my pockets might looken up and i will order parts lol, so thanx guys alot


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----------------------If i ever used Oosic as a handle material, I'd feel like less of a man. So save a walrus and use wood lol
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  #14  
Old 02-13-2007, 11:56 PM
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Osprey Guy Osprey Guy is offline
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That's the spirit!! Glad to have you on board!

Looking forward to watching your progress...




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  #15  
Old 02-14-2007, 08:52 AM
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NJStricker NJStricker is offline
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huj,

I think many of us here have tried to make knifemaking as economical as possible, and a lot of us have experimented. Some things work, some don't. Many of the people here have learned the hard way and are just trying to save you some grief. You can still scrounge and make a good quality knife. It's a matter of knowing what will work and what won't. You're not to that stage yet, these guys are. There's a lot of pride to be taken in your first knife. These guys are just trying to keep you from thinking to yourself afterwards, "I wish I had done this or that differently."
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