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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#31
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A couple more pics:
My sketchy-looking etching setup. An old battery charger, table salt in water, and a probe made from tweezers and cloth wrapped with tape. It worked, but the bottom of the etched area came out a little splotchy... I think the battery charger had an AC stage to it, "marking" the bottom while etching but some residue from earlier cleaning prevented the whole thing from blackening. The results are a little odd-looking, so I might either get some paint in the etched area or re-do the etch. The etch doesn't look too bad when light reflects off it, but the colors are still weird. There was also some bleeding around the masked area, making a couple unwanted etch lines. |
#32
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You may have had your pad too wet, if you went straight from the water to the blade next time try to get the excess water off then do the etch. That should prevent water seeping under the tape
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#33
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If you said what steel you used I must have missed it. Your pictures are so large it causes the text to stretch well beyond the limits of my 17" screen so it's difficult to be sure I've seen all of it. But, if the steel isn't stainless - and I'm guessing it isn't if 1500F is the right temp - then holding for 20 minutes is probably too long for a blade that thin. If it's 1084 or similar then 5 minutes should do it, for O1 I'd go 10 or maybe 15 but that's about it. Holding carbon steel at temp for too long is almost as bad as not long enough. I don't think you have a critical situation there but there is room for improvement ...
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#34
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Quote:
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#35
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The biggest thing with HT info you have to be careful what your looking at is the thickness of the material. As Ray said- thickness plays a large role, often HT data is for thicker than what most knives are made of, but this information is often posted along with the data, something to keep an eye on.
and to add to what Ray said about room for improvement... I've seen a great quote- "The largest room in the world is for improvement" Last edited by WynnKnives; 05-07-2013 at 01:35 PM. |
#36
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You must be running your monitor at a pretty high graphics density. The way the picture size manifests itself has a lot to do with the density per inch that the picture was created with. Anyway, it's something to pay attention to and something that too many guys who build websites overlook - most people don't run their monitors at that high a density because it makes the print on many webpages took too small to them. So, if you want people to see what you're doing you might want to run your pictures through PhotoShop or something similar and see what size it says your pictures might be. When I take a picture with my camera the high density pictures show to be about 30 inches wide! I use PhotoShop to resize them to 8" wide and they fit on most screens and still have all the detail you need....
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#37
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Ray, most monitors nowadays are at least 1280 pixels wide so it's my default horizontal resolution for resizing. Older monitors might require scrolling... yours is probably 1024x768 by your description.
Knife is still coming along. I have it test fit together and ready for shaping the scales. I also did some work on the etched logo and it looks much nicer now. |
#38
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My monitor is capable of 1600x900 pixels but I do run it at 1024 to keep things from getting too tiny for an old man's eyes. Worth remembering if you want us old dudes to see what you're doing....
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#39
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Finally made some more progress on the knife:
I riveted the scales and bolster together, then test-fit the other parts. Also drilled the countersinks for the pivot and screw. I was able to clean up the etched logo. It looks pretty good now. Another picture of the etched logo. Roughing the scale shapes on the spindle sander. I couldn't find washers small enough for the lock bar pivot, so I made my own out of brass sheet stock. These are needed for letting the bar pivot easily after peening it in place. Finished cutting the tiny washers (mostly with a pair of scissors). Peened the lock bar into place and started the fine sanding. This picture is at about 220 grit, though I kept sanding through 600 grit before stopping... if I feel like I need more polish, I'll do so after getting a few finish coats on the scales to stabilize the wood. I masked off most of the inside area and started finishing the scales. This is after one coat of waterlox original (a tung oil based finish). |
#40
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Looks like it is coming along nicely
__________________ Walt |
#41
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I finally finished this thing. Took a long longer than I had planned, but it was fun. Thanks for the advise when I was bumbling through the build. Pics:
The final knife. It was hard to take pictures because of the shininess. The bocote scales look pretty nice. The blade is 3 1/16" long. It fits well into my hand. Close-up of the bocote grain. The rear spacer/bolster is also O1 steel sandwiched between the brass liners. The texture of the blade looks pretty neat. It also hides blemishes well. |
#42
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Im really loving that folder. I always thought folders were too technical to attempt with my limited skills and tools. Your semi tutorial was quite an eye opener.
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Tags |
art, bee, blade, brass, build, files, folding, folding knife, grinding, hobby, jig, kit, knife, knife kit, knife making, knives, lock, lockback, made, make, making, material, materials, scales, steel |
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