Canvas Micarta

[Jeremy Krammes]

I'm working with some green canvas micarta scales right now. I have tried the suggestions I found using the search, except buffing (I don't want it shiny). The scales look 'dusty', like an ashey green. Any suggestions as how to bring out the green?

Thanks
Jeremy

[AUBE]

i dunno what youve tried so far but...the surface finish plays a huge role in how it looks..maybe u need to finish it to a finer grit? does the color show up well when wet? maybe lightly oil it? also if it was slightly overheated while working it, it will leech out some of the color.


-Jason Aube

[E-Diddy]

Originally Posted by Jeremy Krammes

I'm working with some green canvas micarta scales right now. I have tried the suggestions I found using the search, except buffing (I don't want it shiny). The scales look 'dusty', like an ashey green. Any suggestions as how to bring out the green?

Thanks
Jeremy

I finish micarta to 600 grit wet dry. You are never going to get as intense a color with canvas based as you will with linen based. The fibers in the canvas are bigger and when exposed will mute the color more.

Sanding the micarta with water is also good because it carries away the dust insted of leaving it trapped in the fibers.

[luc]

Hi Jeremy!
I do what E-Diddy does, and finish with gun oil, (takes away the dusty look) canvas micarta will darken and smooth out a little with use if not buffed.
I will try and find an example pic!
Good luck.
Lucas

Here we go!

[Jeremy Krammes]

Thanks guys. I tryed the gun oil thing, that worked. Next time I'll try the wet sanding to see how that works. I should have the finished knife posted in about a week or so.

Hay Luc, I love your work, I saw you in Blade last month.

Jeremy

[Jason Cutter]

This is a really late reply, but in general terms, the "darkness" and depth of the colour in most Micartas and G10's is directly proportional to the grit size used. The higher the grit (finer), the darker the colour will be. In some instances, like in black linen Micarta, it becomes so dark that all contrast in the layers can just about disappear. Also, when fully polished, the fabric Micartas get sealed down, so it doesn't have the grippy effect that satin finished Micarta gets when it gets wet. Some people also want that.

I just had an interesting thing happen with denim Fibermascus. When satin finished, eg.- 180-240grit on the grinder, the thing is a bright fresh denim blue. When I finished it up to 600grit and then buffed it, it turned a dark blue-green !

Also, remember that Micartas and related laminates were not specifically designed for knifemaking (except Gary Riner's Fibermascus) but rather, for electrical insulation properties, so colour and consistency from batch to batch is not really a priority to the manufacturer. Different batches will look different and behave slightly differently when ground and finished.

Jason.

[Jeremy Krammes]

Thanks Jason... I'll keep that in mind next time I work with it.

Jeremy

[SheepishLion]

How tough is it to work Micarta with hand tools??? I don't own a grinder but was thinking of using some Micarta scales on a knife for a friend. Also, what's a good cheap place to get some Micarta to play with???


Thanks,

Joe

[Jeremy Krammes]

Its very easy to work. I used a chanesaw file to shape it, because my grinder cut it so quick. I think I got mine from Scheffields they call it Phenolic Resin, Micarta is a registered name, but it's all the same stuff. It's all cheap no matter where you get it.

Jeremy

[AUBE]

i think all the supply houses carry micartalike material and as Jeremy said, its easy to work.

on a side note....be carefull whilst working composites. none of its is good to breath but some can be worse. the composites that use fiberglas(like G10) are very bad to breath, the glass fibers will actually start lodging into your skin and lungs causing bad problems..carbon fibre is even worse. try to work it wet to keep the dust down, wear protective clothing and a respirator, clean up the mess when you are done before it becomes airborn. using a paper/linen/canvas based composite is much safer(if a bit weaker) than a glass/carbon based.

-Jason Aube

[SheepishLion]

Thanks for the info guys!

Joe

[titaniumdoctor]

You can buy G-10 AND G-11 in sheets by the foot in different thicknesses from McMaster Carr. Good cheap way to practice. I use it to make working models of knives I'm gonna build.