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High-Performance Blades Sharing ideas for getting the most out of our steel. |
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#1
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turning tools
Good day! Need some help...I am trying to make some lathe wood turning tools for very small vessels, pens, etc. out of o-1. Should I leave the cutting area as quenched at 61-62 hardness with no tempering; or temper to 59-60, or less, for a durable, yet more easily sharpened cutting surface? The cutting surfaces will only be from 2mm-3mm in width. Thanks in advance for suggestions, Tony!
__________________ Tony! |
#2
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The higher the rockwell the more brittle it can be. I do a lot of turning and my advice would be to buy some blank cutters and shape as you see fit. Just my 2 cents.
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#3
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ALWAYS temper ! You don't want to shatter the blade especially with a lathe and have bits of tooling flying around !!! The difference in tool life will be insignificant....I had a graver which chipped off at the tip even with soft brass. I had never had that problem so I wondered if they forgot to temper. After I tempered it there was never a problem !!
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#4
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Thanks, guys! Temper will be done 2X to give 58-59 Rc.
__________________ Tony! |
#5
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I have another thought, thanks to Dan. I have already made the 3 chisels from o-1 and will HT those. But, I have several older chisels I could regrind in 2 of the shapes I need. It will probably ruin the temper though, even if I water cool often. Are old chisels made of o-1, or a high carbon steel I could HT the same as o-1?
__________________ Tony! Last edited by back pocket; 03-10-2006 at 07:41 AM. |
#6
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It's hard to tell what the old stuff is made of , 1095, W-1, W-2 ??? But you should be able to grind them without damaging the HT . Just dunk often in water and go slowly. Hold the steel in your hand and when it gets hot to touch dunk it.
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#7
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Thanks, mete!
__________________ Tony! |
#8
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Well here my two cents. Hope it helps. Most turning tools now are made from high alloy stainless, because it take high heat to temper it. And that were most of the problem come from. The friction in use heats the thin cutting edge. So the more heat the steel can withstand, the longer the time between sharpening. Carbon has been used for years and there is nothing wrong with it. I agree with mete, always temper. Un-tempered harden steel is dangerous. I think Dan's idea of buying blanks is a good one. Raymond Johnson
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#9
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Thanks, Raymond!
__________________ Tony! |
#10
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Most common wood turning tools are made from a straight high carbon steel. I have never seen a turning tool made from SS. They may be out there but I haven't seen them.
I think you are on the right track with both of your ideas. Temper to the high 50s on the new tools and try to rework some old tools. just take it real slow on the old tools and you'll be OK. How about regrinding some dowel pins? The only problem with them could be that there are two heat treats allowed a case harden on a carbon steel and through harden on alloy. You would want to use the through hardened ones. At would be pretty easy to press fit them into a mild steel extension shank and handle. Just a thought. If you can hook up with someone that does plastic molding they will have core pins that are small diameter really nicely heat treated to the mid 50s. The core pins are up to 6" long so they might work well. |
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blade, knife |
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