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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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Handle Finish
I've found a few sites on making handles, but none go into much detail on what you finish the handle with. I'm used to wood working where if something is going to get some use, I always finish with polyurithan (sp). I also haven't seen to many products including no ployurithan at all on any suppliers sites?? Second, If I use carbon fiber scales or any other fiberglass scales to make my handles with, do they need to be sealed to prevent any free floating fiber, or are they sealed enough to prevent that. Last, I was reading a post and followed a link to the guys website and in his custom knife area he was disscusing avalible handle material and stated he would not use Dymondwood. Do you think that is a personnel preferance or is there something I need to be made aware of. I e-mailed him but have not got a response. Thanks |
#2
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I'll try to answer your questions- With the exception of shell and ivory, most handle materials (micarta, G10, carbon fiber, stabilized wood) are simply sanded from coarser to finer grits, usually finishing at 800. Some makers will finish this by buffing; others simply put a coat of wax on, and still others will just leave it with a finely sanded finish. It depends in part on the material, but more than that, it depends on the effect you want to achieve. Finishes like urethane are rarely needed, and then, only on unstabilized woods. They are not very durable in a using knife. The bias against dymondwood/pakkawood comes from the fact that it is made from dyed birch plywood, and is generally used on cheap factory knives from China and Pakistan. |
#3
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I'm new at this(less than 6 months), but I like dymondwood for my kitchen knives. Its water, oil and impact resistant. It goes right into the dishwasher with no problems. And it doesn't cost as much as stabalized woods, so it's doesn't cost much to practice with. Finally it comes in a lot of FUN colors and patterns. I've only done knives for about 5 other people and none of them cared much for it though. Drac P.S. Don, I followed your advise on the poly pearl and got rid of the rest of it. |
#4
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I kinda have a plan to do a couple small table settings for my kids using dymondwood. Of course I need to make some kids with my soon-to-be-wife first and then I'll do the table settings Prost, Morgan |
#5
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Well, I try to take to heart anything a "vet" says, so Don, I will stay away from the stuff. I've just started making, but I've been a collector for a while and would never want to pass on something that might be even a little below quality. It does however hurt my feels a little because since I've been dreaming of making knives I've had an idea stuck in my head of a mirror polished drop-point with the redish color you get on the "wine-wood" Dymondwood. Can anyone recommend a quaility material that has a bright-redmixed in or a stand-out hue of red in it? Thanks PS Morgan...You have a preferred order of things to follow - Marriage - Kids - Knives...it can be done in other orders but not always as preferred. I know we all get a little excited about our hobbies/proffessions, but trust me, follow the tried-and-true order.---- :-) PSS - Just playing around Morgan ;-) |
#6
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#7
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For what it's worth, I have used dymondwood on any number of knives, and it's great for practice, and does indeed make a durable handle. I think, however, that as our craft improves, we tend to move on to materials that have a higher level of acceptance among knowledgable knife users and collectors. Because of its use on millions of trashy blades, dymondwood just doesn't fall into that category. I am in the process of making a Talonite kitchen knife. The handle on it will be red (dyed) stabilized fiddleback maple. I'll post a pic when it's done. |
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knife, knives |
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cajunbowhunter, coldtracker, erdan |
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