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Heat Treating and Metallurgy Discussion of heat treatment and metallurgy in knife making. |
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#1
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Heat treating D2
Anyone care to answer saome Q's on hardening D2?? I have a piece and thought about putting the damascus on the backburner for now. I've never used it before. I need some hardening temps. and quenching techniques. I know it's air hardening but don't know how.
Thanks Again, TiDoc. |
#2
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Don't know if you have an oven or forge, but, here's the poop on D2:
Preheat to 1400/1450, soak 5-10 minutes. Ramp to 1850, soak 30 minutes min, 40 minutes for 1/4" thick stock, then quench in warm oil, air quench or press quench. If you HT in a foil pouch, leave the blade in the pouch is you press quench. Your as-quenched hardness should be about Rc62/63. temper twice at 500F for 2 hours, aim hardness is Rc60, which provides maximum toughness for D2. If you're going to cryo treat, do so after the first temper, and, temper 2x afterwards, for maximum properties.Good Luck, __________________ Stay Sharp, RJ Martin Knifemaker www.rjmartinknives.com |
#3
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I use D2 quite a bit and agree with the post above. I would add a little here, though. I use Bohler/Uddeholm Steel's heat treat specs (see BUCORP website, cold work steels, D2 datasheets) and they give a hardening range from 1810?F to 1920?F. I prefer ~1870?F with a 40 minute soak, and mostly quench in oil. For larger and thin blades, I air quench as the oil may warp them. I use Turco from K&G supply to coat the blades.
Uddeholm reccommends a sub-zero freeze treatment at dry ice temperatures and I usually harden in the evening and treat on dry ice overnight, then temper three times starting the next morning. I like the three tempers (two hours each at 400?F) because the D2 is a high alloy that retains about 14% Austenite and the extra tempering may help with that last bit of conversion. __________________ "I want to play with your poodle" Lightnin' Hopkins, long ago Steve Hayden steve4663@gmail.com Aztec, NM |
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blade, forge, knife |
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