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#1
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Joining vulcanized fibre in handles
Hello all
I'm working on ideas for a kitchenknife for my dad. This is my idea so far. I'm very new at this stuff, so i dont know a lot about the materials. What would be the best way, if even possible, to join the 2 red vulcanized fibres pieces at the bolster at the front of the handle? Would sanding with super fine grid make a nice enough connection against the other piece of vulcanized fiber? Also, where would you sugest buying a good kitchenblade with fulltang (must be online)? Hope you guys can help me out here. Rasmus |
#2
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The usual way of handling those liners is as you suspected: fine sanding and epoxy.
Most any knife supply place will have kit blades. Look at knifekits.com and knifemaking.com You probably won't find one with a full length bolster like the one in your example. Full length bolsters are a very bad idea on kitchen knives because they interfere with sharpening the rear of the blade and eventually cause the blade to get wavy at the rear.... |
#3
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Thank you very much Ray.
I wasn't interested in a full bolster to start with, but i find it very difficult to find kitchen blades i like, without it being 100$+ damascus steel. The one i prefered so far was this blade: https://www.brisa.fi/portal/index.ph...oducts_id=2754 The next blade i found is this one: http://usaknifemaker.com/kit-knives-...l#.U8ovEvl_t4A Can anyone explain to me what a blade blank means? Most of the time i see that blade blanks are not heat treated and sharpened, but some times (as in this case) its both? Thank you for your help |
#4
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Why make it two pieces? Take a metal ruler and score a line where you want the fold at. Bend the fold back on the side where you scored it so you have one continuous fiber liner.
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#5
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Even though I'm not a fan of that bolster I would choose the Brisa knife over the other one because of the blade grind. The USA knife has a saber grind, meaning only the lower portion of the blade has been ground. That is no problem on a field knife and can even be an advantage for them but it is not something you want on a Chef's knife as it will usually ruin a clean slice in firm vegetable (like a radish) when you are cutting for presentation.
You can grind the bolster up by a half inch (2 cm) and solve the sharpening problem. Or, keep looking, you should be able to find that same blade with no bolster or a short bolster ... |
#6
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Quote:
If i bend the fibre one way, it will make a gap in the corner where i made the cut. And i don't think it will bend the other way. I will have a go at it, and see what happens. Thanks Ray. Thanks for the info, i didn't even think about the grind on the US blade. Makes a lot of sense though :-) I will keep looking. Have a nice weekend both of you. |
#7
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Quote:
Also try http://www.crazycrow.com/knife-blades for some blades. I started out making a Green River Belt Knife from one of their blades and it is a sharp nice blade. They also have some butcher blades in there. Didn't see any chef blades though. Good luck! Tony Z Kansas City, MO __________________ ABS Apprentice Bladesmith USMC Veteran VFW Life Member "Retreat? Hell, we just got here!" Captain Lloyd Williams, USMC Battle Of Belleau Wood June 1918 |
#8
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glue a piece of fiber on the end of wood and sand flush then glue the other on and sand it flush perfect joint
__________________ Austin Colvin |
Tags |
art, blade, blades, bolster, bolsters, damascus, epoxy, handle, handles, kit, kitchen, kitchen knives, knife, knife supply, knifekits, knifekits.com, knifemaking, knives, make, materials, products, sand, sharpening, steel, supply |
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